[mdfixer]

Roper 4440VQ1 will not start. I followed advice on this site and tested the continuity of the termal fuse, starter swicth, door switch and all were fine. I did not see instructions on how to test the timer?? Other than this, what else is there for me to test??

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RED4440VQ1 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

To check the timer set the timer mid scale air only, this should disconnect the heating coil so it does not confuse your readings.
Unplug the unit.
Use the most sensitive scale on your meter.
Disconnect the wire/wires from C on the timer and measure across C to B.
Should be 0 ohms.

But before doing the above I would check the power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

[mdfixer]

Originally Posted by denman

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RED4440VQ1 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

To check the timer set the timer mid scale air only, this should disconnect the heating coil so it does not confuse your readings.
Unplug the unit.
Use the most sensitive scale on your meter.
Disconnect the wire/wires from C on the timer and measure across C to B.
Should be 0 ohms.

But before doing the above I would check the power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

Thanks for the replay. I know it is not the power source.
I set the timer to No heat fluff for 10 mins, unplugged the unit and disconnected the wire harness from ABCH leaving the other two harnesses connected. My meter showed no continuty between C and B. Regarless of which ohms setting I put the meter on, it read "1". I know the meter is working fine. Does this mean the timer is bad?

[denman]

Yes I would agree with you that the timer is toast.
C/B contacts have to close for the motor to run.

[mdfixer]

Originally Posted by mdfixer

Thanks for the replay. I know it is not the power source.
I set the timer to No heat fluff for 10 mins, unplugged the unit and disconnected the wire harness from ABCH leaving the other two harnesses connected. My meter showed no continuty between C and B. Regarless of which ohms setting I put the meter on, it read "1". I know the meter is working fine. Does this mean the timer is bad?

New Information: When I unmounted the timer box I could here a small plastic part shaking around inside. I took the timer box apart and found the bottom ring that activates the switches was no longer mounted to the stem. I don't suppose it is possible to order just that small plastic ring that was light brown in color instead of a new timer for $78??

[denman]

No you cannot get timer internal parts.