[Bob M.]

Dryer would not start consistently. Sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. When it wouldn't start you would hear a noise, but not tumble. Now it doesn't work. Try to turn the drum by hand and it doesn't spin very easily. Prior to issues it used to spin by hand much easier.

[TechnicianBrian]

It sounds to me like your motor may be failing and only starting intermittently. Similar to a dryer I worked on in my post Kenmore Dryer Won't Start that needed a new motor after years of use. If you press the start button and only hear a humming sound, then that tells me everything else is working and now it's time to look at the motor. If you don't hear anything, then something else is most likely causing the problem.

[Bob M.]

I just went down and turned the dryer on. It hummed as you suggested and struggled to turn the drum. It did begin to turn the drum but was struggling so I stopped it by opening the door. Then closed the door and pushed the button again and get nothing. I am certain the motor is bad, I am trying to see if there is anything else that might need replaced as a result of the motor struggling to start or if there is any issues with the start button since it won't humm/start every time.

[TechnicianBrian]

There may be a start switch problem, but more likely the thermal overload attached to the motor is opening resulting in the motor needing to cool down and the overload reseting before it will attempt another start. It only takes a few seconds of the motor not starting for that overload to trip so I would think the motor should solve your problems.

[Bob M.]

We have had times where we have left the dryer for hours and returned to try to start the load and push the button and it won't start. Would this also be attributed to the thermal overload? Could the thermal overload be sporatic in the timing of the reset or should I be concerned about the start button as well? I have no doubt the motor is bad. Now I am trying to determine if the button switch is bad. It doesn't always attempt to run when the button is pushed. This occurs when load is stopped mid-cycle and it occurs when the unit is left for days/hours and attempted to start.

[TechnicianBrian]

If you are concerned about the switch, remove the rear panel and do a continuity check of the switch with a multimeter. Your model uses a relay switch (like in this post Understanding Push-to-Start Switches), so it's just a matter of checking the switch and relay to know if it is working properly.

[Bob M.]

Now that I have replaced my motor, my dryer won't heat. I have removed the Ignitor and hardwired to a 110 outlet and it glows properly. When plugged into the dryer it is not glowing. Looking to diagnos which sensor or where to look for the reason why the ignitor won't glow and subsequently heat my dryer. The drum/motor is working fine with new motor.

Bob

[TechnicianBrian]

If you remove the lower access panel and look inside, you will see a thermal fuse and thermostat attached to the top of the blower housing, and a thermostat attached to the burner housing. Most likely, one of them has failed and will read as an open circuit. If you don't have a multimeter, you can temporarily bypass each one of them by connecting the two connectors together to see which one has failed.

[Bob M.]

Bypassed each and still the ignigor won't glow.

Bob

[TechnicianBrian]

Check for voltage at the connection to the burner assembly between the two wires. Then check each to the chassis and see if you have voltage. The L1 or hot side of the circuit goes through those components you bypassed and the neutral side goes through the centrifugal switch on the motor. If you don't have voltage, then you need to trace each side of the circuit to find where it is no longer connected. Since you changed the motor, I would start there and make sure the neutral side of this circuits connector didn't come loose.