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Dryer not heating and it's not the heating element

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I do not see any burned wires and the wire connections look clean Related Models Whirlpool  LE8860XWQ0  Residential Dryer Amana 

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Old 10-26-2011, 07:56 AM
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Default Dryer not heating and it's not the heating element
Model Number: LE8860XWQ0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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I do not see any burned wires and the wire connections look clean


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2011, 10:46 AM
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I have the same problem with my Whirlpool, Wires were burnt but repaired with Good splicing, Continuity still viable and all the fuses,Heating Element, connections are good and tight. If you find out, Let me Know. Maybe we have the same recourse to fix the problem.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:14 PM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LE8860XWQ0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

First check the power to the unit.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
The heating element requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.

Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

Next check the heating coil for resistance, should be around 10 ohms.
Next check the thermal cut-off (Item 6 in Section 4), it should be 0 ohms.
If blown (infinite ohms) there are other things to check before replacing it as you have to find out why it blew.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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