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dryer has no heat/timer dying

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Need help, my dryer has stopped heating. At the same time the heat went completely out my timer went from

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Old 05-08-2009, 07:57 PM
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Angry dryer has no heat/timer dying
Model Number: TEDS740PQ1   Brand: Estate   Age: 1 - 5 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Need help, my dryer has stopped heating. At the same time the heat went completely out my timer went from max of 60 min to over 2 hours without going off.
What parts will I need to fix this problem.

Thanks!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2009, 05:01 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDS740PQ1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%208576793.pdf

First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Better yet measure the voltage at the plug.
L1 to L2 = 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral = 120 volts

Try the unit in timed dry.
Now does the timer advance?
If yes then odds are high that your heating element has burned out.

In Timed Dry this unit's timer motor gets it's power basically directly from the power in.
In Auto cycles it gets power through the heating element when the thermostat shuts the element off so if the heater goes, no power to the timer motor and no heat is the result.

Best to check it with a meter for resistance with the unit unplugged.
But usually you can see the broken filament.

Remember to unplug the machine when working on it.
240 VOLTS IS LETHAL
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Old 05-09-2009, 03:26 PM
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Thank you for your reply!
I usually use the 60 minute timed cycle. It moved very slowly to the off position but took over two hours.

Just to clarify what parts I should order: heating element definitely

Should I order any of the following: thermal fuse, dryer cycling thermostat, thermal cut off for dyer heating element for 309 degress, thermaostat fixed

Thanks again for your help

Last edited by tomlizc : 05-09-2009 at 03:28 PM. Reason: hit wrong button needed to write more
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:59 AM
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I usually use the 60 minute timed cycle. It moved very slowly to the off position but took over two hours.
I am assuming that the unit did shut itself off after the 2 hours and that the 240 volts is OK.
If this is correct then the most likely culprit is the timer.

Just to clarify what parts I should order: heating element definitely
Only if it is blown. Confirm this either visually or with a meter.
Note: it will have no effect on your timer problem as you are getting long run times in Timed Dry and it is not in circuit in Timed Dry mode

Should I order any of the following: thermal fuse, dryer cycling thermostat, thermal cut off for dyer heating element for 309 degress, thermaostat fixed
I would not unless you can confirm they are shot with a meter.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.



Thanks again for your help
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