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j2campeau  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:58:16 PM(UTC)
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j2campeau

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Joined: 4/22/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

I have a dryer that does not start,also the heat is low, took forever to dry.would this be therma high limit and heat element
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, April 23, 2009 3:47:16 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE4500AZW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Note the wiring diagram included with the above is wrong, it is for a gas dryer.
Here is one that should be close to yours. It is for a PYE4557.
http://www.appliancepartspros.c...ect/i/e/j/iejjhajfjf.gif
If you do not have the correct one, check in the control console, they like to hide them in there.

Sounds like you have 2 problems. Though the low heat symptom indicates a heating problem which may have blown the thermal fuse. See Item 5 in the "Heater" section, note it comes with a new high limit.

Unplug the unit and check the thermal fuse with a meter.
If blown you will want to check the heater for a grounded element also clean and check the vent system. Best to find the cause of the low heat before replacing the fuse. The symptom is low heat but high heat is required to blow the fuse, most likely is an air flow problem either the vent system or the blower.
Also check that the cycling thermostat's contacts open. I usually just heat the face up with a soldering gun but you could also heat it up on a stove element.

You could remove the wires from the thermal fuse, short them together, tape them up and run the unit so you can diagnose/repair the low heat problem.

This is for diagnosis only, do not leave the unit like this as the thermal fuse is a critical safety device.

If you do not own a meter I would suggest you purchase one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
j2campeau  
#3 Posted : Thursday, April 23, 2009 8:16:31 AM(UTC)
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j2campeau

Rank: Member

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Joined: 4/22/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

thanks for the info denman I will troubleshoot
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