[dparker333]

Dryer wouldn't keep running unless Push To Start (PTS) was held in. Propped an iron against the button and now it won't re-start. I replaced the PTS switch, didn't work. I ran the factory recommended "factory test" and was able to get all the beeps as indicated. I was testing the heater relay with a test light and it popped very loud. I think I blew the relay. The thermal fuse is fine. From all the reading on this site, it looks like I could have a bad motor. Don't want to buy the motor if it could be something else. Please help!

[denman]

Here is the tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...64%20-%20B.pdf

Dryer wouldn't keep running unless Push To Start (PTS) was held in. Propped an iron against the button and now it won't re-start. I replaced the PTS switch, didn't work.
Not sure of the chronology of the above. Did the unit run with the PTS depressed, then would not run at all then replacing the PTS made no difference? OR Did replacing the PTS stop the motor?

I was testing the heater relay with a test light and it popped very loud. I think I blew the relay.
Odds are higher that you blew the control electronics. The heater relay is not part of the motor circuit.
Was the motor running and you had no heat?

The thermal fuse is fine.
Which one you have two in this unit. The one for the motor is usually mounted on the blower.

From all the reading on this site, it looks like I could have a bad motor.
Could be the motor.
Strange!! Depends on the order in which things happened.
The motor circuit is Neutral / Door Switch / Centrifugal Switch / Motor's Start and Main windings / Thermal Fuse / Timer Contacts BU-BK / L1
The board senses that the motor has started closes the Motor Relay and keeps the motor running when the PTS is released.
A multimeter would help here (see METER below)
Check the power first Neutral to L1 and Neutral to L2 should be 120 volts,
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts.
If OK try MOTOR below.
If the motor starts you need a new motor, probably a new even heat board and maybe a relay.
You have to find the component that is stopping the motor from running with the PTS depressed. You should be able to narrow it down with a meter and the unit unplugged.
Once you get that fixed then you will probably have to fix the original problem.
Here is a good link see #40
http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN MESSING AROUND IN A POWERED DRYER.
240 VOLTS IS LETHAL.

MOTOR
Try turning the drum by hand. Should turn fairly easily.
This may take 2 people
Open the door
Manually hold the door switch closed
Push the start button and manually rotate the drum in the correct direction.
Watch your knuckles in case it starts up.
If it does start up, odds are high that you need a new motor.

METER
If you do not own a meter I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[dparker333]

The dryer worked fine, just didn't start properly. Therefore, iron was propped against pts to keep it running. I then put a new pts button in thinking that was the problem. After I realized that wasn't the issue, I then started testing the circuity and reading the electronics manual tucked away in the cavity. I was able to perform the factory test and everything "beeped" like it was suppose to. I then tested the heater relay incorrectly, hence the loud pop. Now I can't perform the factory test.

[denman]

Sounds like at the minimum you have blown the even heat control board.
But it may have been shot to start with just it's power supply is now toast.