[trski]

Drier runs in any cycle; seems to advance slowly in the automatic cycle but will not shut down when the dial reaches off position. It heats, but does not seem to be super hot. Replaced drum bearings about a year ago. Are these current problems worth dealing with?

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for AMANA DLE330RAW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...T3220013R0.pdf

Here is a service manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...S3200007R0.pdf

Does it shut off properly in timed dry mode?

Does the timer freeze when it hits off or does it just keep on going (ignoring the off point)?

Low heat is often due to a clogged/problem vent system or a blower wheel.
Not enough air is being drawn over the heating coils so it is switching off more than it should.

[kayakcrzy]

Originally Posted by trski

drier runs in any cycle; seems to advance slowly in the automatic cycle but will not shut down when the dial reaches off position. it heats, but does not seem to be super hot. replaced drum bearings about a year ago. are these current problems worth dealing with?

if the washer is working well, and it is not loud in the spin cycle, it is most likely in good enough shape to replace the timer. if money is not a issue, and you have the bug to buy a new one. this would be the time. tom

[trski]

Actually it's a dryer. Any idea what parts would need to be replaced and ballpark cost? Something I can handle, or is this a job for our repair guy?

[denman]

No idea on either

"Can I do it"
Do not know your capabilities.

"Cost"
Without narrowing it down, cannot tell and you did not answer any of my questions.

Perhaps it is best to get a repairman.

[trski]

Thank you very much for your assistance.

[trski]

Originally Posted by denman

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for AMANA DLE330RAW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...T3220013R0.pdf

Here is a service manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...S3200007R0.pdf

Does it shut off properly in timed dry mode?

Does the timer freeze when it hits off or does it just keep on going (ignoring the off point)?

Low heat is often due to a clogged/problem vent system or a blower wheel.
Not enough air is being drawn over the heating coils so it is switching off more than it should.

Denman, jJust found your original response. I was looking at Kayakcrzy's. No, the dryer will not shut down in any cycle. Timer freezes and stays in the off position (but dryer does not stop). I did check the exhaust vent, which is pretty clear. I assume if I open the unit I can find the blower wheel and vac it.

I am no mechanic, but own tools and can disassemble/reassemble reasonsably well.

Thanks again for your help.

[denman]

I assume if I open the unit I can find the blower wheel and vac it.
I doubt it is a dirty blower wheel.

The reason for the auto/timed dry question is that on most units the dryer motor gets it's power through a different circuit path.
Timed dry is independent from the heater so should have no effect.

Do you have a meter?
It would be helpful to know it the timer motor is still receiving power when it is stuck in the off position. Just to rule out a mechanical fault with the timer re: it is sticking at a position before all the contacts can open at off.

I will have to print out your wiring diagram, get out the colored pencils and trace out the circuits. Whoever did the wiring diagram did not have a lot of talent when it comes to simplifying it.

Could be a set of contacts in the timer are welded together holding the motor on but I need to confirm that this is possible.

When it is stuck at off, how do you turn the unit off?
Is it still heating when stuck at off or is just the motor running?

[denman]

OK got the pencils out and traced the circuit.

If timer contacts L and M are welded together the only way to stop the motor would be to unplug the unit or open the door. Note the wiring diagram shows L as L2, not sure what it is marked as on the timer itself but should be an L something.

Note the heat would be off.
Also assumes that once you stop it that you restart it as normal re: you have to use the push to start to get it going.

If you have a meter.
Unplug the unit.
Make sure the timer is at off.
Remove the wire from either L or M on the timer
Measure from L to M
Should be an open circuit (infinite ohms)
If 0 ohms the contacts are welded together and you need a new timer.

At approximately $125.00 I am not sure it is worth replacing unless the rest of the unit is in good shape. Replacing it is not a difficult job. Do not remove the wires from it until you receive the new ones so you can swap one at a time OR mark each wire as to which contact it is attached to on the timer.

PS: Reread my earlier post and I apologize for being a tad rude but it is frustrating when questions are not answered and I am trying to help. Makes me think that the person on the other end does not want to put out any effort and is quite frankly wasting my time.
Guess I should chill out a little and not jump to conclusions.
Again I apologize.

denman

[kayakcrzy]

i am sorry about the washer mistake, but my brain is back. igf you put the timer on a timed dry cycle, and not an auto cycle, the timer should time out. if not, replace the timer. tom www,********************************************/parts.htm