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chucksta  
#1 Posted : Saturday, April 11, 2009 3:13:33 PM(UTC)
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chucksta

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Hello:

I am having problems with getting my dryer to start, after checking the breaker and replacing the thermal limiter it still won't turn on. I was wondering if there is something else It possiblely could be?? thank you
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kayakcrzy  
#2 Posted : Saturday, April 11, 2009 6:30:13 PM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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If you have not achieved 240 volts to the back of the dryer where the cord comes into the dryer, that is something you need to do. If you replaced the thermal limiter, and you have power to the dryer, then the only other thing it could be is the door switch. Tom www.appplianceeducator.com
chucksta  
#3 Posted : Saturday, April 11, 2009 7:07:47 PM(UTC)
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chucksta

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using a meter the 4 prong device outside where the plasic blower is with the fins , if i check that with a meter 3 of the prongs read good and the "blue" wire reads no continuity. What is this for and would this make it so the dryer would not start up.? Also the door switch same problem there is a blue grey and black, the blue and grey shows continuity but the black doesn't read, is this bad or am I just not using a the meter right?? Thank you again :)
kayakcrzy  
#4 Posted : Sunday, April 12, 2009 5:52:11 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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It sounds like the door switch is good. I wonder what thermal limiter you replaced. Is it the one in the back, that is white in color, and is a inch and a half long, and a half inch wide. That is the one that will shut it all down. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
chucksta  
#5 Posted : Sunday, April 12, 2009 8:44:55 AM(UTC)
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chucksta

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the one i replaced was the little silver and black round 2 prong that is located in the upper right corner

Part Details - FRIGIDAIRE Thermal limiter, part number: 134120900


the one in the front of the plastic blower is this part
Part Details - FRIGIDAIRE Thermostat-cont-elec w/m.s., part number: 134048800

there is one more part that is located right below the thermal limiter i allready changed out.

L260-70F

but this one seems to be good...
kayakcrzy  
#6 Posted : Sunday, April 12, 2009 8:51:10 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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I,m sorry, I lost my brain there for second. I was mistaken. You replaced the right sensor, but you did not indicate weather you checked incoming power at the plug. After you have established that, the only other thing I could think of would be the timer. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
chucksta  
#7 Posted : Sunday, April 12, 2009 9:00:51 AM(UTC)
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chucksta

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Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy Go to Quoted Post
I,m sorry, I lost my brain there for second. I was mistaken. You replaced the right sensor, but you did not indicate weather you checked incoming power at the plug. After you have established that, the only other thing I could think of would be the timer. Tom ApplianceEducator.com




I didn't check this out i just assumed there was power . I don't know how to check this safely and kinda scared too LOL.
kayakcrzy  
#8 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 3:36:39 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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take the small panel off where the cord goes into the dryer. Then there will be three terminals. Put your meter on volts at least 300, and then put one meter lead to the far left terminal, and the other to the far right terminal, and you should read 240 volts. Let me know how it goes. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
chucksta  
#9 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 9:03:23 PM(UTC)
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chucksta

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ended up vacuuming all the lent out everywhere put it back togeather and it started to work again, I don't really know how this fixed the problem but seems to be working again...
kayakcrzy  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, April 14, 2009 3:09:39 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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If the dryer is clogged up, and air flow is not leaving the dryer, the high limit thermostat will short cycle the heat. So improving the air flow out of the dryer did the trick. Excellent!! A little bit of pain, but a savings of cash, is the best part. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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