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I have an Amana LGA30AW. The dryer burner turns on for about 30 seconds and then shuts off, while the

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Old 04-11-2009, 11:01 AM
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Default Gas dryer burner turns off after 30 seconds
Model Number: LGA30AW   Brand: Amana   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have an Amana LGA30AW. The dryer burner turns on for about 30 seconds and then shuts off, while the dryer continues to run. Any idea on why it turns off after this short time frame?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2009, 07:31 PM
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Replace the coils on the gas valve. Tom www.applianceeducator,com
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Old 04-11-2009, 07:51 PM
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Default Gas dryer -Amana -heating problem

Thanks for the reply. I replaced the coils earlier today, unfortunately it did not resolve the problem. I also tested the flame sensor, circular timer motor on the top part of the dryer, and thermostat with a voltmeter and these seem to be ok. I didn't check the ignitor, but I don't believe the ignitor is an issue as the dryer does ignite and bring out the gas flame for short time (5 to 20 seconds). I wonder if the timer could be bad. My wife informed me that the other night the dryer did not shut off and was on all night. According to my wife there was no heat.

Do you think it may be an issue with the timer board or possibly some other related part like the motor? Also with the information I pulled from the internet it stated that there is a thermal fuse. I cannot seem to locate this part in the dryer to test nor did I see it as a replacement part under the find parts on this website.
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:25 AM
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I was wondering if the vent to the outside or the blower assembly is full of lint. Since you know how to take the front off. The blower housing is attached to the front of the dryer. The blower housing could be totally loaded with lint, causing this problem. It is no big deal to take off. Once the front is off, there will be two 5/16s screws on the left side of the front of the cabinet holding the blower housing in place, and two on the right. Once you take those off, the whole blower housing will come off. Clean it out. Also, I don't know if your vent hose in the back goes straight out, or, if it goes a long way. Just be sure the vent blows out outside rear well. If you are not sure, after you clean the blower housing, and put it all back together, you could run the dryer without the vent hose on in the back. If after this, it still works the same, it could either be the high limit thermostat cutting it off to early, or the gas valve is bad. Sometimes, replacing the coils are not enough. If you want to be sure which one of the 2 are bad, just take the 2 wires off the high limit thermostat, and put them togeher, and put some tape around it, so it does not hit metal, and give it a try. It it works great, replace the high limit thermostat. Do not run it that way if it works. It is for testing reasons only. If it does not work better, I would go with gas valve. That high limit thermostat, should be located on the flame tube. Let me know how it goes. Tom ********************************************
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kayakcrzy View Post
I was wondering if the vent to the outside or the blower assembly is full of lint. Since you know how to take the front off. The blower housing is attached to the front of the dryer. The blower housing could be totally loaded with lint, causing this problem. It is no big deal to take off. Once the front is off, there will be two 5/16s screws on the left side of the front of the cabinet holding the blower housing in place, and two on the right. Once you take those off, the whole blower housing will come off. Clean it out. Also, I don't know if your vent hose in the back goes straight out, or, if it goes a long way. Just be sure the vent blows out outside rear well. If you are not sure, after you clean the blower housing, and put it all back together, you could run the dryer without the vent hose on in the back. If after this, it still works the same, it could either be the high limit thermostat cutting it off to early, or the gas valve is bad. Sometimes, replacing the coils are not enough. If you want to be sure which one of the 2 are bad, just take the 2 wires off the high limit thermostat, and put them togeher, and put some tape around it, so it does not hit metal, and give it a try. It it works great, replace the high limit thermostat. Do not run it that way if it works. It is for testing reasons only. If it does not work better, I would go with gas valve. That high limit thermostat, should be located on the flame tube. Let me know how it goes. Tom ********************************************
Thanks for the info. I taped off the two wires from what I believe is the high-limit thermostat (none of the diagrams have this named part) and the flame now continues to burn good and indefinitely. Unfortunately, I am confused as to what is the correct thermostat to now replace. Per the diagram for the motor fan and assembly there is a 24 thermostat and a 26 heater thermostat. There is a circular part that is screwed into the flame tube where these two wires connect to. Based on your reply I beleive this is the high-limit thermostat, however I do not even see this part on any of the diagrams. Can you tell me what is the part number or location of the high-limit thermostat, so that I can replace it? Thanks
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:43 AM
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I noticed the same thing you did that the part was not on the parts list. With a little digging the part # is Y61886. That is the thermostat sitting on the tube where the flame comes out. Tom ********************************************
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