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Dryer will not give off any heat, drum turns, starts great just no heat. Please advise. Thanks! Checked the dryer

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2011, 05:25 PM
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Question Dryer wont heat
Model Number: LEN200JQ0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Dryer will not give off any heat, drum turns, starts great just no heat. Please advise. Thanks!
Checked the dryer vent and it is clear. Could it be the heating element?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2011, 02:37 AM
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Are you sure it is LEN 200 and not LEN2000.
The following is for a LEN2000JQ0

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN2000JQ0 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Yes it could be the heating element.

First I would check power to the unit. The motor and timer run off of 120 volts (L1 to Neutral) but the heating element requires the full 240 volts (L1 to L2)
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If OK unplug the unit and check the heating element.

If it is OK check the thermal cut-off (Item 9 in Section 3).
If this is blown get back to us as there are other things you should check before replacing.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf LEN2000.pdf (345.9 KB, 19 views)
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:11 PM
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Default thermal cut off has no continuity

I checked the breakers all is good. I checked the continuity of the thermal cut off and there is none. What would cause this to blow out? The thermosat on the heating element is good.
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:14 PM
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Default Dryer won't heat

I checked the breakers and all is good. I did a continuity check on the thermal cut off and it is blown. What would cause this ? The thermosat on the heating element is good.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:18 PM
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Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:03 PM
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Default Dryer still won't heat

I checked all the volts from the outlet, to the machine all is good. Installed new heating element. I had no ohm reading on the thermal cut off so I changed it. Turned on the dryer and it kept tripping the breaker, then after three trys the thermal cut off blew. So now I ordered and replaced a new thermal cut off, with the high limit and the dryer cycle thermosat. I turned on the dryer and within a second it tripped the breaker. I won't try it again because the stats are still reading 0 ohms and I don't want to wreck the new parts Thermal fuse has 0 ohms. The ohms on the heating element are 0, shouldn't this be higher? The dryer cycle has 0 ohms at the red wires and 3 ohms at the purple wires, is this right? When I put in the bad thermal cut off back in, I can turn the dryer on and run it with out tripping the breaker. Totally confused, please help.
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Old 09-16-2011, 02:11 AM
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The ohms on the heating element are 0, shouldn't this be higher?
Yes it should be between 8 to 12 ohms. Be sure to use the most sensitive ohms scale on your meter usually 200 ohms. See my earlier posts.

The dryer cycle has 0 ohms at the red wires and 3 ohms at the purple wires, is this right?
I cannot comment on this as I am not sure where you are measuring.

When I put in the bad thermal cut off back in, I can turn the dryer on and run it with out tripping the breaker.
Sounds like you have a short somewhere in the heater circuit.
Did you check the heating coil before installing it?
I would recheck it as it may be grounded, see my earlier post.
It is always a good idea to check parts before installing them as sometimes they are no good direct from the manufacturer.

It should not be that difficult to find out what is causing this as it happens all the time.
I also would not replace any more parts unit you find the cause.
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Old 09-16-2011, 02:13 AM
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The site double posted the above reply for some reason so I just edited this one out.
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
The ohms on the heating element are 0, shouldn't this be higher?
Yes it should be between 8 to 12 ohms. Be sure to use the most sensitive ohms scale on your meter usually 200 ohms. See my earlier posts.

The dryer cycle has 0 ohms at the red wires and 3 ohms at the purple wires, is this right?
I cannot comment on this as I am not sure where you are measuring.

When I put in the bad thermal cut off back in, I can turn the dryer on and run it with out tripping the breaker.
Sounds like you have a short somewhere in the heater circuit.
Did you check the heating coil before installing it?
I would recheck it as it may be grounded, see my earlier post.
It is always a good idea to check parts before installing them as sometimes they are no good direct from the manufacturer.

It should not be that difficult to find out what is causing this as it happens all the time.
I also would not replace any more parts unit you find the cause.
Does anyone know if this was ever solved? I have exactly the same problem and I don't want to burn out another cutoff switch. I'm pretty sure that i don't have a short on the heating coil.
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