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I have a Frigidaire Gas Dryer Model fsg447ghs0 My dryer tripped the circuit breaker. I flipped it back but it

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Old 08-18-2011, 05:29 AM
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Default Dryer not heating
Model Number: fsg447ghs0   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have a Frigidaire Gas Dryer Model fsg447ghs0

My dryer tripped the circuit breaker. I flipped it back but it has stopped heating and does not dry my clothes. The dryer turns but but there is no heat.

It spins just fine but clothes don't dry and are not hot.

I checked continuity on ignitor, sensor, safety thermostat. All were closed. On the heat control thermostat I got continuity betwen the two wide pins (left and right). But there are also two close pins (up and down) where I did not get continuity. Should I have?

Any suggestions on how to fix and what part(s) I should order?

Thanks!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2011, 08:18 AM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbanks View Post
I have a Frigidaire Gas Dryer Model fsg447ghs0

My dryer tripped the circuit breaker. I flipped it back but it has stopped heating and does not dry my clothes. The dryer turns but but there is no heat.

It spins just fine but clothes don't dry and are not hot.

I checked continuity on ignitor, sensor, safety thermostat. All were closed. On the heat control thermostat I got continuity betwen the two wide pins (left and right). But there are also two close pins (up and down) where I did not get continuity. Should I have?

Any suggestions on how to fix and what part(s) I should order?

Thanks!
Gbanks,

Yes , there should have been a resistance reading across the too smaller terminals, it would have been a very low reading, but there should be some reading.

Part number: AP3214939

Part number: AP3214939


If the heater inside the thermostat shorted to ground, you should also check tyhe temperature switch circuits ans timer heat circuit contacts for proper circuitry as well.

Good Luck,
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2011, 09:07 AM
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Default What do I check?

I have checked the following parts:
1. The igniter (#74 on the burner break down diagram)
2. The flame sensor (#79 on the burner break down diagram)
3. The safety thermostat (#33 on the cabinet break down diagram)
4. The heat control thermostat (#15 on the motor break down diagram)

Which parts are the temperature switch circuits and timer heat circuit contacts on the diagrams and how do I check them for proper circuitry?

I am not sure what I should check. Sorry, I am not that familiar with Dryers.

Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbanks View Post
I have checked the following parts:
1. The igniter (#74 on the burner break down diagram)
2. The flame sensor (#79 on the burner break down diagram)
3. The safety thermostat (#33 on the cabinet break down diagram)
4. The heat control thermostat (#15 on the motor break down diagram)

Which parts are the temperature switch circuits and timer heat circuit contacts on the diagrams and how do I check them for proper circuitry?

I am not sure what I should check. Sorry, I am not that familiar with Dryers.

Thanks!
Gbanks,

Thanks for the information,

To check the timer (part#1)

Part number: AP2107842

Part number: AP2107842


and the temperature selector Swich (part #15)

Part number: AP3885581

Part number: AP3885581


in the control panel parts diagram.

At the timer, with the power off and the dial set in the "timed dry" setting
Remove the wires from terminals A and B and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals.
Remove the wires from terminals B and C and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals.
If you get closed circuits on both tests, the timer is OK.

At the temperature switch, with the setting on high heat, remove the wires and test for a closed circuit from terminals 1 and 2.
On medium heat remove the wires from terminals 4 and 5.
On low heat, remove the wires and check across terminals 4 and 3 .
If all the circuits are closed, the temperature switch is OK, as well.

Any open circuits would indicate a damaged switch or timer. The thermostat bias heater should have a resistance range of 20 to 30 thousand ohms, if you need or want to recheck the resistance.

If all the checks are OK, we'll need to move on from there.

Good Luck,
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:17 PM
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Smile Dryer Not Heating

USEALY 99% ALL DRYERS THAT ARE ABOUT 10 YEARS AND NEWER, HAVE A THERMAL FUSE.. THIS IS USSALY ON THE LEFT HOUSING AT THE BOTTOM.. IT IS A LITTLE WHITE LOOKING THING WITH TWO WIRES AND A 1/4 INCH SCREW,, DISCONNECT BOTH WIRES AND OHM OUT THE WHITE FUSE IF IT WILL NOT OHM OUT, WHICH IS CLOSE THAT MEENS IT SHOULD BEEP OR ZERO OUT,, JUST LIKE A FUSE IN YOUR CAR OR ANY OTHER FUSE,, IF IT IS OPEN,, THAT WONT OHM OUT,, IT IS BAD.... THE BEST WAY TOO MAKE SURE THIS IS PROBLEM TAKE THE WIRES YOU TOOK OFF AND PUT THEM TOGETHER,, THEN PLUG IT BACK IN AND SEE IF IT START HEATING.. THE BAD PART IS THE PART STORES TRY RIPPING YOU OFF FOR THIS $50 CENT FUSE.. THEY TRY CHARGING $20.00 FOR IT...IF YOU LOOK ON AMAZON YOU CAN GET THEM FOR A COUPLE BUCKS,,
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebest View Post
USEALY 99% ALL DRYERS THAT ARE ABOUT 10 YEARS AND NEWER, HAVE A THERMAL FUSE.. THIS IS USSALY ON THE LEFT HOUSING AT THE BOTTOM.. IT IS A LITTLE WHITE LOOKING THING WITH TWO WIRES AND A 1/4 INCH SCREW,, DISCONNECT BOTH WIRES AND OHM OUT THE WHITE FUSE IF IT WILL NOT OHM OUT, WHICH IS CLOSE THAT MEENS IT SHOULD BEEP OR ZERO OUT,, JUST LIKE A FUSE IN YOUR CAR OR ANY OTHER FUSE,, IF IT IS OPEN,, THAT WONT OHM OUT,, IT IS BAD.... THE BEST WAY TOO MAKE SURE THIS IS PROBLEM TAKE THE WIRES YOU TOOK OFF AND PUT THEM TOGETHER,, THEN PLUG IT BACK IN AND SEE IF IT START HEATING.. THE BAD PART IS THE PART STORES TRY RIPPING YOU OFF FOR THIS $50 CENT FUSE.. THEY TRY CHARGING $20.00 FOR IT...IF YOU LOOK ON AMAZON YOU CAN GET THEM FOR A COUPLE BUCKS,,

Gbanks,

No need to worry or check something unnecessary, Your "thermal fuse" is part of the motor drive circuit, not you heater circuit. Since your dryer tumbles the thermal fuse is OK.

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Old 09-01-2011, 12:52 PM
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Default

Thanks for the information,

To check the timer (part#1)

Part number: AP2107842

Part number: AP2107842


and the temperature selector Swich (part #15)

Part number: AP3885581

Part number: AP3885581


in the control panel parts diagram.

At the timer, with the power off and the dial set in the "timed dry" setting
Remove the wires from terminals A and B and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals.
Remove the wires from terminals B and C and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals.
If you get closed circuits on both tests, the timer is OK.

At the temperature switch, with the setting on high heat, remove the wires and test for a closed circuit from terminals 1 and 2.
On medium heat remove the wires from terminals 4 and 5.
On low heat, remove the wires and check across terminals 4 and 3 .
If all the circuits are closed, the temperature switch is OK, as well.

Any open circuits would indicate a damaged switch or timer. The thermostat bias heater should have a resistance range of 20 to 30 thousand ohms, if you need or want to recheck the resistance.

If all the checks are OK, we'll need to move on from there.

Good Luck,
[/quote]

I checked the timer and it was OK.

I checked the temperature switch and it showed infinite resistance on both medium and low.
On medium heat remove the wires from terminals 4 and 5.
On low heat, remove the wires and check across terminals 4 and 3.

The wire from terminal 3 to 5 had melted so it seemed likely the switch was what was bad. I bought the new temp switch and replaced it and the wire from 3 to 5 but still no heat. I checked everything again and the new temp switch checks out the same as the old one with no resistance on high between terms 1 & 2 but infinite resistance between 4&5 on med heat and infinite resistance on low heat between 4 & 3. Is this the way it should be?

Also rechecking the Flame Sensor it shows slight resistance. Is this normal? Does it matter on the flame sensor where the orange wire goes? If so where is it supposed to go as I forgot to take a picture of how it was wired?

Every thing else checked out OK.

What do you suggest I try now?

Thanks for your help.

Glen
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:46 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbanks View Post
Thanks for the information,

To check the timer (part#1)

Part number: AP2107842

Part number: AP2107842


and the temperature selector Swich (part #15)

Part number: AP3885581

Part number: AP3885581


in the control panel parts diagram.

At the timer, with the power off and the dial set in the "timed dry" setting
Remove the wires from terminals A and B and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals.
Remove the wires from terminals B and C and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals.
If you get closed circuits on both tests, the timer is OK.

At the temperature switch, with the setting on high heat, remove the wires and test for a closed circuit from terminals 1 and 2.
On medium heat remove the wires from terminals 4 and 5.
On low heat, remove the wires and check across terminals 4 and 3 .
If all the circuits are closed, the temperature switch is OK, as well.

Any open circuits would indicate a damaged switch or timer. The thermostat bias heater should have a resistance range of 20 to 30 thousand ohms, if you need or want to recheck the resistance.

If all the checks are OK, we'll need to move on from there.

Good Luck,
I checked the timer and it was OK.

I checked the temperature switch and it showed infinite resistance on both medium and low.
On medium heat remove the wires from terminals 4 and 5.
On low heat, remove the wires and check across terminals 4 and 3.

The wire from terminal 3 to 5 had melted so it seemed likely the switch was what was bad. I bought the new temp switch and replaced it and the wire from 3 to 5 but still no heat. I checked everything again and the new temp switch checks out the same as the old one with no resistance on high between terms 1 & 2 but infinite resistance between 4&5 on med heat and infinite resistance on low heat between 4 & 3. Is this the way it should be?

Also rechecking the Flame Sensor it shows slight resistance. Is this normal? Does it matter on the flame sensor where the orange wire goes? If so where is it supposed to go as I forgot to take a picture of how it was wired?

Every thing else checked out OK.

What do you suggest I try now?

Thanks for your help.

Glen[/quote]

Glen,
Everything sounds good, except the no.1 and 2 temperature switch circuit,
That circuit has to close, in order to get 120 VAC to the thermostats and valve coils etc. Try this, attach the Orange(term.1) and the Red(term 2) wires togetherand strt the dryer to see if the igniter glows or not, that will confirm a bad switch or not. Wiring location on the radiant sensor is not specific(it's a single pole/single throw switch) and should have a "closed" circuit at room temperature. We will probably need to run "live voltage" tests
If this doesn't check out properly.
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