SITUATION/SYMPTOMS: We just moved into a home, and to get our dryer (Whirlpool LEN2000PWO) to fit in position, I installed a rigid dryer vent, which consists of a connection to a 2"x6" rectangular duct that goes up 18 inches or so to a 4 inch diameter elbow that connects to the home's vent outlet. Last night, the dryer was running when I was headed to bed, so I opened it to see if the load was dry. It wasn't, so I closed the door and pressed the Push to Start switch to start the dryer again. Unfortunately, it wouldn't start. I heard sounds from the timer motor and the Push to Start switch clicked when I pushed it...but nothing else happened. The same symptoms continue today...sounds from the timer motor unless in an Off position plus a click when I push the Push to Start switch.

TESTS RUN: Today, I spent the day troubleshooting. I tested the following components for appropriate continuity: Door switch, Electric heating elements, Hi-limit thermostat, Operating thermostat, Thermal cutoff, Thermal fuse, Push to Start switch. I even rigged a wire to bypass the Push to Start switch, but the dryer still wouldn't start. I also checked the status of the timer's leads when the dryer's dials were in various positions. Everything seemed to check out fine.

While I had the back of the dryer off, I also vacuumed out the venting area, in which I found dust, sand, lint, pebbles, a couple screws, and a miniature light saber.

The motor was running fine when I opened the dryer door last night. I'm getting perplexed at what the possible problem could be. Any ideas on next steps to diagnose?

[COLOR="DarkRed"]5. Rather than have to mess with the main inside of the unit. Measure at the Timer switch 4 White wire. It should be infinite ohms. I got 1[/COLOR]
I am assuming that 1 on your meter is for infinite ohms, so this is OK.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]6. Push the start button and it should drop to a couple ohms. This shows that the thermal fse and the motor windings are OK. I got 0.03[/COLOR]
This also looks OK

[COLOR="DarkRed"]7. Disconnect the wires going to T at the Timer Switch 4. Measure to T, again it should drop to a couple ohms when the start button is pressed. I got 1.319 when the start button was pressed.[/COLOR]
This looks like the problem, looks like T to W contacts are not closing properly.
Since you disconnected all wires from T then the resistance you see could be in the contacts.
More likely is that Timer Switch 3 WB is connected internally to T on Timer Switch 4 and what you see is the timer motor in parallel with the electronic control. If this is the case then Timer switch 4 is not closing.

I would check your L1 to Timer Switch 4 W with push to start activated using the 200 ohms scale. It should be around 1.5 ohms. This just checks that there is not a short in the motor which could blow the Timer Sw2itch 4 contacts. Just a precaution.