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Hi there, MAYTAG Electric Dryer, Model MDE 6700 AZW Problem: Will not tumble, will not heat Other Symptoms: -When starting the unit, the is an audible *click*. On regular cycle, timer starts at 51 min and runs for 2mins, then drops to 1min and completes cycle. I guess the moisture sensor is working well. I double checked the heating element and there is no heat. -The last time the tumbler and heater worked, the laundry came out way hotter than normal (almost too hot to touch)...so I suspect a temp control problem. -No error message on the digitial display. Not the Problem: -There is power to the unit. No blown fuses. Control panel works fine. -The belt is fine and does not look damaged (I removed the front cover and inspected it). Further, turning the motor shaft manually via the bower fan turns the drum no problem. -I clean and doubled checked the blower fan, exhaust and traps for any blockages, but everything seemed fairly clean. Thank you in advance for your help! Marsh ******Update****** A couple more things discovered last night: -I am getting the full 220V to the dryer and the dryer plug is fine -Using the part numbering system from Replacement parts for MDE6700A models | AppliancePartsPros.com: -Part 16 Thermostat ( AP4045367) appears to be fine. (measuring 0-1 ohms) -Part 50 Thermistor ( AP4045224) appears broken. (measuring infinity ohms) -Part 11 thermostat ( AP4045617) may be broken (could not get an accurate reading...having a real hard time disconnecting the leads) -Part 52 Assy Bracket Thermo ( AP4045859 ) appears fine (measuring 0-1 ohms) Another question: is one of these parts considered the 'thermal fuse'? This part is not listed on appliance parts pro. thanks again, Marsh
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Rank: Member
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Replaced the thermistor (Item 50 listed above) as it was defective. All other thermistors and fuses tested ok.
Still have the exact same problem as described above...back to square one. Any ideas?
thanks!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The motor has an internal switch that controls the heater; so that there is no heat until there is air flow. Are you getting voltage at the motor?
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Rank: Member
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Hi magician59,
I have checked voltage at the receptacle and am getting the full 220V. I have NOT tested at the terminal strip. Will check tonight and report back.
(i) If I am in fact getting 220V at the terminal strip, is there anywhere between the terminal strip and the motor that I should be checking?
(ii) Should I be checking the motor switch for continuity?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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Start at the door switch. There are two circuits controlled by it. When one is closed the other should be open. They'll change states when the switch is activated. (You may get lucky and discover that you merely forgot to hook it back up after replacing the thermistor).
If the door switch tests OK, test the belt switch. It is designed to open the motor (and heat) circuits in the event of a broken belt.
Unfortunately, I don't have a manual for your particular model, that I can tell you which terminals to test for voltage; but to do a continuity check on the motor windings and switch: Disconnect the motor and test connector pins 4 and 5 for the motor windings; and 1 and 2 for the switch.
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Rank: Member
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Door switch ok.
But, discovered I am not getting 220V at the terminal strip. In fact, it's ready 0V at the terminal strip. I did not notice any burnt wires, but there was a bit of a burning smell. I am still however getting the full 220V at the receptacle, so I know it's not house wiring (which was installed March 2011).
Did not get to testing the belt switch or the motor...
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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If there is power at the receptacle, but not at the terminal block, the problem is in the cord. I would confirm this by doung a continuity check on the cord; If there is a break, don't try to repair it. Replace the cord.
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Rank: Member
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Hi magician59
Did not get a chance to test the chord. Will report after the weekend. Thanks for everything so far!!!
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Rank: Member
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Performed continuity test on power chord --> reading infinity. So I am assuming it is shot.
Just to make sure I was doing this right:
-Set my meter to RX1.
-I connected a jumper between L1 and L2 on the terminal block.
-I connected 1-lead between the L1 prong on the plug and the multimeter and 1-lead between the L2 prong on the plug and the multimeter.
thanks,
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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Not sure I followed your description there. What I would do is unplug the dryer and disconnect the cord from the dryer. Then place one probe from your meter to one of the line terminals of the plug; and the other probe to the corresponding bare end from the dryer connecion. If there is a reading of infinity, you will know that the cord is open and should be replaced.
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