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Dryer will not start at all, no sounds of any kind can be heard. When you turn the timer switch it clicks some but not like it should.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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It could either be the door switch or the push to start switch.[URL="http://www.applianceeducator.com"][/URL]
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Rank: Member
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It could be the door switch or the thermal fuse but the start switches don’t give much trouble. The most common thing to cause this problem on Whirlpool dryers is the thermal fuse. To check the thermal fuse first disconnect power then remove the back from the dryer. Then you should see the fuse on the left hand side near the bottom. It’s a small white fuse with two wires. Disconnect the two wires using an ohmmeter check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals. If not the fuse is bad and needs replacing. Note that if this part is bad the dryer vent is probably stopped up because this is the most common cause for the thermal fuse going bad.[URL="http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/Whirlpool_dryer.html"][/URL]
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mr. Appliance guy, on a gas dryer, the the thermal fuse being bad the symptom would be no heat!! On a electric whirlpool made dryer the thermal fuse being bad would make the unit dead. I believe you are confused!! Tom.[URL="http://Www.applianceeducator.com"][/URL]
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You must be mad cause I said start switches don’t go bad often and they don’t. I would have to see a wiring diagram but I believe you are wrong.
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But I am not above being wrong either. Plus I was writing off the top of my head.
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None of us are above being wrong. But, if you could understand, someone not knowing what to do, and how to fix there appliance, and asking for help, it would be nice for those to answer the questions with good knowledge, and not confuse the person asking for help. The next time young man, you are out at a customer house, and it is a whirlpool, or Kenmore, or Roper, or Estate, and it is a gas dryer, and it is working fine, pull the wires of the thermal fuse. You will find the dryer will run, but there will be no power to the ignitor. But, Hey what I know, I have only been in the business for thirty years, and soon will be passing this business off to young wippersnappers!! LOL!!!! Tom
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Rank: Member
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Why are you getting mad? I was just trying to help and I have been repairing appliances for 15 years myself. Again I haven’t seen a wiring diagram and I am not saying that I know you are wrong. But your attitude is not good for that website you are trying to promote. Plus there was no mention in the original post about it being a gas dryer and I didn’t look up the model number (my mistake). I am sorry if I made you mad it was never my intention. Also I still stand behind the comment I made “start switches won’t go bad often” I may have replaced one over the last year. In my option telling someone to check a part that gives as little trouble as start switches is not good either. Although I do agree that it can cause that problem. This will be my last post because I have no intentions of arguing any further. Again sorry if I made you mad
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I am no way mad. The model # starts with a LG, the G meaning gas. If it were a LE it would be electric. I would agree the start switches hardly ever go, but, check it out before you answer. We always welcome educated help. After 15 years in the business, I would bet my bottom dollar, that you know your business pretty good. But, I must say, after 30 years, I am still learning everyday. At 51 years old, I still run 8 calls a day, and drive 200 to 250 miles. Also owning my own business. So, again, I am not mad. Tom
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sewqueenHere are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LG5651XMW0 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a tech sheet. Note it is for a MW1, I could not find one for a MW0 but it should be close. Yours may be hidden in the control console https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203393988.pdfFirst plug something into the outlet just to make sure you have voltage. Next manually push the door switch/actuator then try the push to start. Do not run it too long with the door open as you can blow a fuse, this is just a test. If this does not work then I would use a meter and check the following: 1. Door switch - should be 0 ohms when door is closed 2. Push To Start switch - should be 0 ohms when pushed 3. Timer Switch 2 - should be 0 ohms 4. Motors coils - see the tech sheet If you do not have a meter, this may at least narrow it down a bit. Set unit to a timed dry cycle close the door. Does the timer advance? If it does then the door switch and the Timer Switch 2 are OK. All that is left is the Push To Start switch and the motor. Or a loose or broken wire. |
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