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whirlpool dryer timer not moving

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The timer does not move from the place I turn it to. whatever tempature the dryer is set at when

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2009, 07:00 AM
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Default whirlpool dryer timer not moving
Model Number: ler2614dwo   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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The timer does not move from the place I turn it to. whatever tempature the dryer is set at when I turn the knob is the temppature it stays at until I manually turn it off. Is the timer the only thing that could be broken?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2009, 07:31 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER2614DW0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%203401728.pdf

Is the timer the only thing that could be broken?
No.
Try it in timed dry.
Now does it advance?

Timer gets power from different circuits for timed and auto cycles.
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:28 AM
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yes it does advance in the timed cycle where do I go from here?
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:50 AM
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OK, here is the circuit path for the timer motor in Auto cycles
L2 , motor's centrifugal switch 2M/1M , HEATER , RESISTOR , TIMER SWITCH (contacts) OR/TM, TIMER MOTOR , L1

When the heater is turned off by a thermostat, you get L2 voltage at the left side of the HEATER due to no current through it so it does not drop any voltage.
This then powers the TIMER MOTOR through the RESISTOR which drops the voltage from 220 to 120.

Top of the list for possible causes are:
1. The resistor (open)
2. Timer switch (contacts) OR/TM
3. A grounded heater element.


The easiest and safest way to check the above is with a meter.
If you do not have one, I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:00 AM
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Another follow up is that the dial does advance in the timed dry until it reaches the off position. But it stops there and does not shut off.
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:12 AM
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If the unit has an end of cycle buzzer turn it off.
If it still will not shut off it does sound like you need a timer.

Timer contacts BU/BK may be welded together.
They are the ones that should shut the unit off.

Since you can shut it off manually the contacts may be OK but there could be a problem with the timer's gears.
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