[jacklandgraf]

My dryer quit working. Being the smart person that I am I figured. No problem it has to be the timer mechanism. I replaced the time after ordering a new one, wire by wire I switched out ( obviouslly screwed up )I checked continuity and it actully turned out to be one of the high heat element. I got a new parts kit that had a switch that I rereplaced and two other thermo's (one for a gas dryer and one for an electric dryer. I checked the continuity of the faulty therm. and it had blown. Now I have a dryer that has a new timer but is obviously not hooked up properly. I have a wiring diagram but it means nothing to me. I need to be walked through the connections or see a color diagram with the wires hooked up properly. The whole problem stemed from the fact that the dryer was never vented properly and the accumalation of lint had almost completely closed of the dryer vent outlet

Thank you for any help you can give me. Jack

[denman]

Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for ADMIRAL LNC7764A71 DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com
Note: the wiring diagram has a problem in that the right side of it is missing. L2 side of the line connects to the right side of MOTOR CENT. SWITCH.

You did not say what the current problem is so I am assuming that the unit still will not start.

First unplug the unit and one wire at the thermal fuse that you replaced and check it,
Would not be the first time a part was defective from a manufacturer.
If OK reattach the wire.

Next check the power (L1 to Neutral) (black to white) should be 120 volts.
Be very careful as 240 volts is lethal!!!
Try flipping the breaker slowly off/on a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without tripping the breaker.

The only available info is the wiring diagram but you should be able to figure out any missing color codes by tracing the wires.
Unplug the dryer and set the timer to air fluff mid cycle.
Set your meter to the most sensitive ohms scale (usually 200 ohms on a digital meter).
Attach one meter lead to Neutral or ground if a 3 wire hook up and leave it there.
Now work you way back through the circuit.
F1 side of fuse should be 0 ohms.
F2 side of fuse should be 0ohms.
C on door switch should be 0 ohms.
N.O. (normally open) on door switch should be 0 ohms. Door must be closed.
WHITE (1) at the motor should be 0 ohms.
PURPLE (2) at the motor should be 2 to 4 ohms. This is the RUN and AUX motor windings.
PURPLE (S) at the timer should be 2 to 4 ohms.
ORANGE (M) at the timer should be 2 to 4 ohms.
BLACK (L) at the timer should be 2 to 4 ohms.
L1 at the line cord plug should be 2 to 4 ohms.

There you have now checked the motor's power circuit.

Here are some basic meter usage tips.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any part you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
This depends if you are just measuring a part or checking a circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.