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SEDS800JQ0 electric dryer is not drying. i took it apart and cleaned every think i could, made sure wires are

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Old 03-23-2009, 11:00 AM
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Default kirkland/ whirlpool not drying
Model Number: SEDS800JQ0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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SEDS800JQ0 electric dryer is not drying. i took it apart and cleaned every think i could, made sure wires are tight and not burnt. element has continuity... i check everything i could find values on...its all testing good...put it together...it had heat! next morning wife happy to do some drying....no heat? i did turn the heat on in the utility room to work on it, if this matters... i have a very nice DMM as well thanks for any input...josh


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2009, 11:43 AM
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got both sides of the 220 hot(at the dryer) more testing as i get it done...(5 kids) tryin to hurry lol
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:19 PM
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k this is kinda funky the thermal fuse works some times and not others...need to be replaced, but wife fessed up...the uses the towel setting and it keeps running, and you have to open the door to stop it, so that must be a timer? ill fix it too if it keeps killin fuses...she told me that when we got it 7 years ago new it didnt work then??? little late ha ha.
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Old 03-23-2009, 03:01 PM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL SEDS800JQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%203406692.pdf

i did turn the heat on in the utility room to work on it, if this matters
Unless you turned it up to above 150 degrees this will make no difference

this is kinda funky the thermal fuse works some times and not others
Once a fuse is blown it stays blown

need to be replaced, but wife fessed up...the uses the towel setting and it keeps running, and you have to open the door to stop it, so that must be a timer?
Not necessarily
I assume this is an Auto setting and the timer is not advanceing
Try timed dry, now does it advance?
The timer gets it's power from different circuit paths for timed and auto.
Timed is Neutral to L1 (120 volts)
Auto is L1 to L2 when the heater is off, with the 5000 ohm resistor dropping it to 120 volts fgor the timer motor

Does it have no heat at all or just very low heat.
I would recheck the heating element.
Remove both wires from it. Check for resistance between the connectors, should be around 10 ohms. Then check from each connector to ground, should be infinite. You may have a grounded element.
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:39 AM
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well i replaced the fuse(buddy had 1)....worked......then next day...it didn't work again ill test the element again like you said...thanks ill let you know what it reads
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:43 AM
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I assume this is an Auto setting and the timer is not advanceing
Try timed dry, now does it advance?
time dry advances
The timer gets it's power from different circuit paths for timed and auto.
Timed is Neutral to L1 (120 volts)
Auto is L1 to L2 when the heater is off, with the 5000 ohm resistor dropping it to 120 volts fgor the timer motor

Does it have no heat at all or just very low heat. no heat
I would recheck the heating element.
will do
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:52 AM
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ok 8.5 ohms from post to post
connector to ground, should be infinite....and it was...i can do car audio all day...alarms, ect....but this dryer is not making any sense to me

Last edited by mrezstreet : 03-25-2009 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 03-25-2009, 04:54 PM
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You may have 2 separate problems or somethging new has occurred.

Check the thermal fuse again
Could be blown again
Most common cause of blowing the fuse is low air flow.
A dirty vent system, an outside vent that in not opening fully, a dirty blower wheel or a blower wheel that has come loose from the motor.
Can also be bad drum seals and a dirty lint filter.

Now for the general operation of the timer motor.
Timed dry circuit path
NEUTRAL , DOOR SWITCH , TIMER SWITCH 0 OR/TM , TIMER MOTOR , timer contacts BU/BK , L1

Auto dry circuit path.
L2 , centrifugal switch 2M/1M , HEATER , RESISTOR , TIMER SWITCH 0 WB/TM , TIMER MOTOR , timer contacts BU/BK , L1

When a thermostat shuts the heater off, you get the L2 voltage on the left hand side of the heater (no amperage drop across it). This voltage is then dropped to 120 volts by the resistor. Basically the timer only advances when the heater is turned off.

Check the thermal fuse (note that the unit does have 2) and the thermostats and the timer switch 2 contacts, all should be 0 ohms.
If all OK all that is left is:
No 220 volts which you have checked and it is OK
Blown heater which you have checked and it is OK
The centrifugal switch on the motor is all that is left. Difficult to check as the motor must be running for it to close.
A loose or broken wire somewhere.

TIMER ADVANCE
You never had Auto dry timer advance but had heat so the centrifugal switch had to be OK. Heater measures OK. Timer advances in timed dry so it's motor is OK. Likely culprits would be the 5,000 ohm resistor or the TIMER SWITCH contact WB/OR

Hope the above is helpful.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
You may have 2 separate problems or somethging new has occurred.

Check the thermal fuse again
Could be blown again
its good
Most common cause of blowing the fuse is low air flow.
A dirty vent system, an outside vent that in not opening fully, a dirty blower wheel or a blower wheel that has come loose from the motor.
Can also be bad drum seals and a dirty lint filter.
took it all apart and cleaned everythink that i could w/o taking the drum off

Now for the general operation of the timer motor.
Timed dry circuit path
NEUTRAL , DOOR SWITCH , TIMER SWITCH 0 OR/TM , TIMER MOTOR , timer contacts BU/BK , L1

Auto dry circuit path.
L2 , centrifugal switch 2M/1M , HEATER , RESISTOR , TIMER SWITCH 0 WB/TM , TIMER MOTOR , timer contacts BU/BK , L1

When a thermostat shuts the heater off, you get the L2 voltage on the left hand side of the heater (no amperage drop across it). This voltage is then dropped to 120 volts by the resistor. Basically the timer only advances when the heater is turned off.
i need to get it working then ill worry about the timer

Check the thermal fuse (note that the unit does have 2) and the
i can see one in the path from blower to tail pipe
thermostats and the timer switch 2 contacts, all should be 0 ohms.
still working on this check point
If all OK all that is left is:
No 220 volts which you have checked and it is OK
Blown heater which you have checked and it is OK
The centrifugal switch on the motor is all that is left. Difficult to check as the motor must be running for it to close.
A loose or broken wire somewhere.

TIMER ADVANCE
You never had Auto dry timer advance but had heat so the centrifugal switch had to be OK. Heater measures OK. Timer advances in timed dry so it's motor is OK. Likely culprits would be the 5,000 ohm resistor or the TIMER SWITCH contact WB/OR

Hope the above is helpful.
so ill keep going....the other fuse is????
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Old 03-26-2009, 11:15 PM
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k i took the drum off to look for the "other thermal fuse" i could not find it....so i shop vaced tha bad boy...but the funny thing is i took of the timer switch, and it made a clicking noise when i tilted it back n forth. so i took it off and started the dryer, after rocking it...BAMM heat....is it the switch of i just get lucky and all the moons lined up? still has heat after i put it back in place but my guess is in a few loads it will be back to no heat
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