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whirlpool dryer LEQ8858JQ0 not heating...checked outside fuses, changed heating element and attached thermostat still no heat Related Models Whirlpool  LEQ8858JQ0

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2009, 01:03 PM
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Default whirlpool dryer LEQ8858JQ0 not heating
Model Number: LEQ8858JQ0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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whirlpool dryer LEQ8858JQ0 not heating...checked outside fuses, changed heating element and attached thermostat still no heat


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2009, 03:14 PM
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You obviously have no volt/ohm meter. It gets really expensive when you guess. Get a cheap volt ohm meter at radio shack, and get back to us. We all would be glad to help. PS Have you checked the thermal fuse on top of the heater housing, also just because the dryer runs does not mean you have all the power. Tom ********************************************
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kayakcrzy View Post
You obviously have no volt/ohm meter. It gets really expensive when you guess. Get a cheap volt ohm meter at radio shack, and get back to us. We all would be glad to help. PS Have you checked the thermal fuse on top of the heater housing, also just because the dryer runs does not mean you have all the power. Tom ********************************************
I'll join this club, Got a Frigidaire LEQ6000ESO with not heat.. Do have a volt meter though. Is there a rule out process to go through to diagnose a no heat condition? The dryer will run for several minutes (no heat in drum) then shut off witht the drying, cool down, extended tumble light bank flashing and 'ERR' on display.
Next steps?
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:31 AM
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More info...you can find some inteesting things inside a dryer, like the tech data sheet to access data codes. Mine is throwing the Heater Fault (no heat) E5B code (duh). It says to check the voltage across terminals on RL2 on the electronic control for 240v. If 240, replace control??? if zero continue with other diagnostics. I dont know what I hope to see when I do this, voltage that indicates $200 part or moving through more tests with a hopefulley cheaper outcome.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:54 AM
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jdpk

First check that you are getting 240 at the plug. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.

Next check the heater. Disconnect both sides of it. Measure for resistance, should be around 10 ohms. Then measure each connector to the frame, both should be infinite.

Then the high limit thermostat, should be 0 ohms.
Then the thermistor, See the tech sheet.

I always try to do the checks where the unit is unplugged first, why mess with 240 volts if you do not have to.
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Old 03-22-2009, 11:41 AM
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Denman
Thanks,
the voltage looks good where it comes in from the wall. This is part of a stackable set about two years old, does the drum need to come out to get at the element? Frigidair model LEQ6000ES0

Update; the resistance across the high limit thrmostat is infinite when unit is not energized. thermister is supposed to be 50 ohm but looks to be way up front and I have not figured out how to get to it yet.

Last edited by jdpk : 03-22-2009 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:30 PM
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the resistance across the high limit thrmostat is infinite when unit is not energized

This should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
Needs replacing.
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:42 PM
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Default Read the meter

I'm an idiot. I read the meter wrong so the thermostat is likely good. Ended up taking the drum out to peek at the element and it was charred and broken at the 12 O'Clock position. I'm gonna hate doing this again in 2 1/2 years if the replacement part lasts as long (or not) as the stock element.
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:28 PM
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Clean and check your vent system.
Check the lint filter. Sometimes fabric softener will coat the screen, greatly reducing air flow. If it is coated, clean it with soap and water.
Clean the lint filter every load.
Check the drum seals.
Check the blower wheel/fan

This should extend the heating elements life as low air flow over it is the normal cause for a short life.
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