[insagt220@aol.com]

DBXR453ET5WW - GE DRYER - 1997 PURCHASE YEAR

First problem ever with this dryer, just quit heating - it tumbles

1. checked the household main breakers and hit reset

2. check for blockage - removed
I believe the dryer may have overheated - 1st time we have had a blockage as well.

3. still no heat

Q. Is there a fuse in the dryer that can be reset? AP2042565?

Q. What part or parts should I purchase? - A starting point
Here are the parts I think it could be, but I do not know for sure
so I am looking for some expertise, thank you for your help.

AP2042618
AP2042573
AP2042565
AP2619954

Karen Tennyson

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for GE DBXR453ET5WW | AppliancePartsPros.com

You may want to take a look in the control console, they like to hide the wiring diagram there. Trying to find a GE wiring diagram on the internet is difficult.

At the top of the list would be the thermal fuse.

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[kayakcrzy]

It would not be the thermal fuse. If it was, the dryer would be dead. Just because you hit the reset, does not mean you have full power coming to the dryer. If you do not have a meter, you will be guessing, and it will cost you alot more that way. You need to whip out a volt ohm meter, and check the power coming into the dryer, where the cord goes into the back. If you have 240 volts there, you will most likely have a bad element. But, it would be nice to whip out the ohm meter, and see if the element has continuity. Tom ********************************************