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Whirlpool Dryer Not Heatin

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Hi, My whirlpool dryer just stopped heating the other day. It still runs & blows air like normal but does

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2009, 04:51 PM
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Default Whirlpool Dryer Not Heatin
Model Number: LER4634JQ1   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Hi,

My whirlpool dryer just stopped heating the other day. It still runs & blows air like normal but does not heat up. I'm guessing it's either a fuse or the heating element but I don't want to order a part w/o knowing for sure what the problem is.

Any recommendations on how to diagnosis it? Thanks.

Alex


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2009, 06:52 PM
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Here is your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER4634JQ1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%208528187.pdf

First turn the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Better yet measure for 220 volts at the plug

Next would be the heater or the thermal fuse (Item 6 Section 3).
Best to check with a meter.
You can check the fuse by unplugging the unit, shorting the wires to the fuse together, tape them up so they cannot short to the frame, pluge the unit in and give it a try.

If the fuse is blown be sure to clean/check the vent system, the blower wheel, the lint filter screen and the drum seals.
Some times the lint filter can get coated with fabric softener and must be cleaned with soap and water.

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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