[Angelsptouch]

I recently replaced my dryer belt. The tumbler is working fine now. But when I got everything back together, it doesn't heat now, and the timer is not working. It starts and runs, doesn't stop until I open the dryer door. Is it possible to have loosened something when I put the dryer back together? I had this issue posted before and got no response, hoping to re post will get a result.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG DE303 DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

I could not find a wiring diagram for this unit.
Check to see if they put one in the control console or it may be glued to the back cover.

First I would check the power to the unit.
The motor uses 120 volts but the heater requires the full 240.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If the power is OK, unplug the unit and check the heating element.
Should be around 10 ohms.

If OK then check the various thermostats, all should be 0 ohms.

Also the motor will have 2 centrifugal switches one of them provides power to the heating coil perhaps you knocked the wire off when replacinf the belt.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[Angelsptouch]

Thank you for the information. I appreciate your response, I will try all of those things, until I find one that works. Hopefully 1 will work.