I could not find parts for a SWX1 the following is for a XSW1.
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LE7680XSW1 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.comWhirlpool has actually mislabeled Item 25. It is not a thermostat. It is a heater element. It is turned on during lower heat settings. It adds heat to the cycling thermostat which causes it to cycle more often resulting in lower unit heat output.
You really need a wiring diagram. Check in the control console. I tried to find one but had no luck even tried using certain parts to cross reference to other units but came up with a blank.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Oddly enough, when the dryer runs, I get voltage through the coils but no heat. (Am I tripping? - how does that work?) The voltage from the front wire on the coil (front is front) is about 28v and the voltage on the other wire is 110v.[/COLOR]
First I think you are confusing voltage with amperage. Voltage is the potential across a device, amperage is the current that runs through a device.
Your measurements are weird but I cannot say why.
I am assuming that you are measuring to the Neutral or the frame.
So if as you say the heating coil resistance is good (8 to 12 ohms) then you should see 110 volts on both sides.
The reason is that the heater is not coming on so no current is passing through it therefore it is not dropping any voltage and you see the same 110 on both sides.
Hope the above makes sense.
That the motor runs is not surprising as it runs off of half the line (110 volts) while the heater runs off both sides of the line (220 volts).
When the unit is operating correctly you should see 220 volts across the heating coil.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]I'm not sure how old the dryer is. When I opened it up, the whip was bad. I replaced it, and checked power. left to right - 110v - common - 110v. 220 across L1 & L2.[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not know what you are referring to. "whip"?
That you actually measured L1 to L2 is a good thing as this is the heater voltage. The heater does not use Neutral as part of it's circuit.
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Am I checking the cycling thermostat correctly? Can I get voltage (and continuity) across the heater coil without heat?[/COLOR]
I am not sure how you measured the cycling thermostat, but Item 25 should measure 5,000 to 10,000 ohms. The cycling thermostat contacts should measure 0 ohms.
Be sure to disconnect one side of any device that you are measuring for continuity or resistance. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
If you are measuring the heating coil using Neutral as reference (one side of your meter), then yes you will see voltage on the heating coil. The reason is that one side of the coil is is usually connected through 1 or 2 timer contacts and the thermostats so even with the unit not running there will be 120 volts from the coil to Neutral. Then when the motor gets close to operating speed it's centrifugal switch with connects to the heater closes and this completes the circuit to the other side of the line giving 2420 across the heater.
Now for a total shot in the dark on my part
See the attachment for a wiring diagram.
It is a Whirlpool that has a moisture sensor and a thermostat heater so may be close to yours but as I said it is a shot in the dark.
It may at least give you a rough idea of how this unit may be wired up.
I hope the above helps and that I did not just confuse you.
It is hard to explain when there is not a wiring diagram.
