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unsure of model number. dryer is not getting hot, it takes several cycles to dry clothes. looks as if some

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Old 03-08-2009, 10:45 AM
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Question dryer warm but not hot
Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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unsure of model number. dryer is not getting hot, it takes several cycles to dry clothes. looks as if some of the coils are working but not all. do i need a new element or thermostat? thank you

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Old 03-08-2009, 10:50 AM
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Need a Model Number
Model Number Locator

Some units have 2 coils.
If yours is one of these perhaps one coil is burned out.
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:27 PM
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model # LER4634JQ1
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:47 PM
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Here are your parts
Model LER4634JQ1

Here is the tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%208528187.pdf

Could be just a vent problem
Undo the dryer from the exhaust
Run a load
If the load dries correctly then you have a vent problem.
Clean/check the vent system. Make sure the outside louvers open fully.

If you do not want lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose, put one leg into the other and attach this to the dryer exhaust.
Leave enough room behind the dryer so it can blow out like a windsock.
Run a load.

Both the above will allow you to check the air flow and temp.
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Old 03-08-2009, 01:08 PM
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ran dryer with vent off yesterday no diff. runs warmer with nothing in it as soon as clothes are put in the temp. goes down.
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Old 03-09-2009, 04:14 AM
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If you do not have one I would suggest you purchase a meter.
You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.


First I would check the heating element.
Unplug the dryer
Remove the wires from both sides of the element
Check for resistance.
Should be between 7.8 and 11.8 ohms as shown on the wiring diagram.
Then check from each side of the element to the frame should be an open circuit (infinite resistance).
This checks that you do not have a grounded element.
If it is grounded it needs replacing.

If you do not have a meter remove the heater and inspect it to see if the element is broken and touching the case.

If above OK

Take a look at the cycling thermostat.
It has an internal heater.
I am not sure which set of is the heater.
This you can find out using the meter.
The contacts should be 0 ohms, the heater should be around 7,000 ohms.
If both OK then leave one of the wires off the internal heater, tape it up so it cannot short to anything.
Plug the dryer in and give it a try.
Now do you have sufficient heat?
If yes then the internal heater is on high all the time resulting in low dryer heat.
The problem could be with the temp selector always at a low ohms setting (10 ohms)
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