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Maytag Performa Dryer Just Quit

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Well I changed the dryer power cord from a 3 prong to a 4 prong...everything worked fine until about the

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2011, 03:41 PM
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Default Maytag Performa Dryer Just Quit
Model Number: PYE2300AYW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Well I changed the dryer power cord from a 3 prong to a 4 prong...everything worked fine until about the 5th load of drying, the dryer just quit and doesn't come back on.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 03:13 AM
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Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE2300AYW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

First check that you installed the new power cord correctly.
At the terminal strip red to red, white to white, black to black and then the ground strap from white (usually the center connection on the terminal strip) is disconnected or removed. If just disconnected make sure that it cannot short to the frame. Then the green (earth ground) cord conductor gets attached to the frame.

Check the power to the unit.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If power is OK
Could be that the thermal fuse on the heater (Item 5 in Section 5) has blown.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)

If the fuse is OK then check the door switch.

Note: On this unit the timer can be used to check that toy are getting the 120 volts required for the motor. Set the unit to timed dry mid-scale if the timer advances then you have correct power for the motor (Neutral to L1 = 120 volts.) Then odds are it is the fuse or the door switch but could also be the motor itself or the timer.
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