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First of all, the model number is 62882, but the kenmore parts site from sears listed two models after searching

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Old 06-18-2011, 01:45 PM
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Default Kenmore dryer not heating
Model Number: 62882   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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First of all, the model number is 62882, but the kenmore parts site from sears listed two models after searching for 62882: 11062882100 and 11062882101. After using the tech sheet that I had to compare models, I'm fairly sure I have 11062882101.

My dryer stopped heating off and on over the past 1.5 years. It finally quit for good recently. Each time it would stop, I would open it up, troubleshoot, do the diagnostics, read some continuities and resistance, put it back together and it magically worked.

Below is the log from my latest attempt - any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm about to chuck it out the window:

1. Identified model
a. Tech sheet part no. is 3979627
b. Accroding to tech sheet part listing, white model is 62882
c. Secondary number ending in 100 vs 101 - online info conclued this was the 101 by comparing part numbers from tech sheet vs. online 100/101. Particularly because the timer part number on the 101 was never 397xxx and then substituted for the 829xx, but always 829xx also according to tech sheet.

2. Damp dry test
a. Timer advanced (although slowly) after 16 seconds (should this be fast?)
b. End of signal occured

3. Diagnostics test - ensure all electrical inputs/signals are working
a. Was able to activate test mode after the above damp dry test
b. Door switch beeped
c. Moisture sensor beeped with damp cloth and finger
d. All fabric care/temp positions beeped
e. Wrinkle Guard switch (can’t remember, but think it did not)
f. Push to start beeded with door closed
g. Timer cam input (?) did not beep
h. Tried to enter test mode again and could not

4. Supply connections test
a. Neutral to center terminal closed
b. Left plug (with neutral at top) with black (L1) closed.
c. Right plug with red closed.
d. Continuity between L1 terminal and BK terminal on timer
e. Continuity between N terminal of plug and P2-1 on electronic control (in wiring harness)

5. Timer component testing
a. Checked resistance across timer motor - only 2.4k instead of 3k (is this bad
since this only handles movement?)
b. Switching test - all switches test ok, cool down as tested by the V to BK on timed dry seemed a little too far past the “touch up” indicator on the dial,
but I could feel the resistance on the dial kick in as soon as continuity did
kick in.

6. Motor test
a. Measured resistance between motor relay common terminal (COM) and the P2-6
terminal on electronic control, should be 1-6 ohms, measured 2.3 ohms.
b. Measured resistance between motor relay common terminal (COM) and ground. High resistance should be measured. Measured 150+ kilo ohms

7. Door switch test
a. Neutral to P2-6 on electronic control (DOOR) should be closed with door closed, open when door open. Tested correctly.

8. Fabric Care Temperature Switch Test
a. Everything checked fine EXCEPT for all continuity tests with Pin 2 (documented against Pin4), the expected continuities were only ever seen against Pin 5 (not Pin 4). Pin 2 was always open against Pin 4, but was closed to Pin 5 on Medium and Medium High heat (as it should have been against Pin 4 according to tech sheet).

9. Wrinkle Guard switch test
a. Pin 1 and Pin 4 open when WG off confirmed.
b. Pin 1 and Pin 4 closed when WG on conirmed.

10. End of Cycle Signal switch test
a. Pins 1 and 2 against 4 open when OFF
b. Pin 1 and 4 closed when LOW, 2 and 4 open.
c. Pin 1 and 4 open on high, 2 and 4 closed.

11. High Limit Thermostat Test
a. Closed continuity
b. Need to apply heat - should open at 250 F - however this wouldn’t keep the dryer from heating

12. Thermal Cut Off Test
a. Closed continuity

13. Thermal Fuse Test
a. Closed continuity
b. At this point I ’m confused - common problems that lead to heat not working are not being manifested - enough evidence points to faulty controls perhaps?

14. Test mode (again)
a. Entered test mode again
b. Fabric care, wrinkle guard, PTS, and door switch all worked
c. Timer did not work when moved, however when it clicked (perhaps this is what a cam switch is?) it did beep, but after once or twice, stopped, then the whole test mode seemed to be off again.

15. Test mode (again, after doing some random runs to try to “reset” it)
a. FC, WG, PTS, and Door worked.
b. Timer was in auto try mode, beeped each time from More Dry, Normal Dry, to Damp, WG, and back up through, back down, when switched to off and then down into Timer mode, no more beeping, all the way back through to the other off position.

16. Thermistor test
a. Plugged dryer back in, door closed, timed dry, temp on high, WG off, signal high, started normally.
b. Exhaust was not even hot, did not measure temp
c. Unplugged and measured resistance at thermistor, 9.3k ohms. Reference to
11.9k at 70 degrees F and 9.2k at 80 degrees F. Laundry area slightly hotter than rest of house - would estimate temperature is 78, seems to line up.
d. Tech sheet says to replace electronic assembly if thermistor within normal limits. Could the heating element be bad, or would the continuity test of high limit thermostat, fuse, or cut off caught this?


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Last edited by Dando : 06-18-2011 at 01:54 PM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2011, 01:50 PM
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What I would like to next investigate:

1. How to determine if actual heating element is bad? Continuity between heat element and thermal cut off exists, what about resistance - no number to test from tech sheet.

2. Controls seem like something weird is going on - timer seems off during the beep test mode, the machine seems to go haywire a bit during the beep test mode and not want to go back into it, and finally the thermistor resistance reading fine indicates the electronic control assembly is to blame (according to tech sheet).

3. If I have to replace the electronic assembly and timer, the kenmore parts site @ sears lists them for $80 each. Better to put the $160 towards the new washer/dryer combo the wife would like?
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:28 PM
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Tested the 240 outlet successfully.

Tested heating element at 10 ohms.
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