Dryer just stopped running while load was in, done the same thing last week, door switch clicks when you push it so i assume thats not it, dont have a volt meter handy to check voltage in and out, been looking for the thermal fuse and cant seem to find it any ideas

Dryer just stopped running while load was in, done the same thing last week
The above seems to indicate that the dryer stopped during a cycle but ran again when started. Is this correct?

Is the problem now that it will not start at all or that it is stopping part way through a cycle?

I would pull the motor and bench test it. All indications show a motor cutting out on it's internal thermal overload.

Here are your parts
Model Search

Here is the wiring diagram
http://ftp.electrolux-na.com/PD....pdf&model=FER231AS2

You cannot assume anything as this can lead you down the garden path.
Just because a switch clicks does not mean that the contacts inside the switch are actually closing etc.

Using the wiring diagram the circuit path to start the motor is
Neutral , DOOR SWITCH , START SWITCH , motor's RUN and START windings , THERMAL LIMITER , timer contacts C/B , L1

Note that your motor runs on 120 volts so it is important to check the power in. Often you can loose the Neutral without actually tripping the breaker.
Make sure you have:
L1 to L2 = 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral = 120 volts

If the problem is in the machine you can troubleshoot this problem by just measuring ohms/resistance, which is the safest way.

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

This is what i checked, Checked for continuity on the motor start, the door switch thermal fuse timer selector and with the meter i have i got a beep when crossing the leads connected the 2 wires to the start switch together and plugged it in to see if it would run and no dice, am a little unsure how to check voltage comming in i know where the L1 and L2 and neutral are but do i check with unit plugged in to outlet? just dont want to go buying anything because i know how it is with electrical parts and no returns, thanks to all for any help as i am no appliance god by any means just trying to save a buck