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Amana electric dryer won't heat. Have replaced heating element, belt, thermostat, heater thermostat, high limit thermostat, and thermal fuse. Dryer

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2011, 12:44 PM
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Default Amana Electric Dryer Won't Heat
Model Number: LEA60AW   Brand: Amana   Age: More than 10 years   

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Amana electric dryer won't heat. Have replaced heating element, belt, thermostat, heater thermostat, high limit thermostat, and thermal fuse. Dryer heated when we put dryer back together, worked once with a load of clothes; now won't heat at all. Drum turns, strong exhaust to the outside, but won't heat up. Basically rebuilt dryer--what's wrong?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2011, 02:39 AM
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First check your power.
The motor requires 120 volts but the heating element needs the full 240.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

Since it sounds like you tried plug and chug I am assuming you do not have a meter.
The heater circuit on this unit runs through a number of devices so finding the faulty part can be a problem.
Also do not assume that a part is OK just because it is new.

Do you have a wiring diagram?

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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