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Whirlpool dryer stuck in cycle just beeps

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I have an Whirlpool dryer, GGX9868JQ0. It will not respond to the diagnostic tests. It stays in Perm-press cycle...it will

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:14 PM
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Question Whirlpool dryer stuck in cycle just beeps
Model Number: GGX9868JQ0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have an Whirlpool dryer, GGX9868JQ0. It will not respond to the diagnostic tests. It stays in Perm-press cycle...it will run, but continuously beeps the whole time it is on and you can't change settings or time. I was told it was the Electronic control assembly or the console panel touchpad assembly. I replaced the electronic control assembly...and it didn't change anything. I am now assuming it is the touchpad, but before I spend over $200 on another part, I want a second opinion...thanks, Sherry


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2009, 02:56 AM
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Default

Here your parts
Model GGX9868JQ0

Here is a tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%203978625.pdf

I cannot find anything that would indicate a faulty part external to the keypad that would cause this error.

There are a couple things you can do without a meter.

1. Looks like the keyboard ribbon cable has a connector on the end of it so clean it with either isopropyl alcohol or electronics cleaner and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent has evaporated.

2. Check the inside of the plug on the ribbon cable to make sure the above 2 connectors are not deformed

3. Check the ribbon cable for cracks/breaks on the tracks. It is hard to see how transparent the ribbon cable is from the picture.

All the above is a bit of a long shot but worth a try.
Your keyboard is the matrix type, it not only has switches but also diodes to direct the current, that is why it is more complex to check out.

The only way to confirm this is to run the continuity test as shown in the tech sheet using a multimeter. The connections for the Perm. Press key is P3-12 and P3-11 but I would check all the keys.

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 08:52 AM
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Default Did you get it fixed?

I have the exact same problem and was curious if you got your problem solved. I hate to spend $450 if it won't work.
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