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Hi, my Estate dryer quit starting a few days ago.I have checked the voltage coming into the unit it's 220v

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2009, 08:08 PM
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Default Estate dryer will not start
Model Number: TEDS840JQ2   Brand: Estate   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Hi, my Estate dryer quit starting a few days ago.I have checked the voltage coming into the unit it's 220v also checked voltages on the motor,elements,and timer.I have checked the continuity with an ohmmeter on the thermal fuse,door switch,timer motor,start switch,and motor also checked the motor for ground.I can hear the timer clicking,but the light is not working,another thing I noticed ,but am not sure about is there is no voltage going in or coming out of the wires going to the thermal fuse.I have replaced the thermal fuse and start switch in the last year.Please help.What else can I check?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:39 AM
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Here are your parts
Model TEDS840JQ2

Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%208528190.pdf

I have checked the voltage coming into the unit it's 220v
Did you also check for 120 volts Neutral to L1, this is required to run the motor

I can hear the timer clicking,but the light is not working
The light runs off of 120 the timer uses 220

Sounds like you have lost the Neutral. Is not uncommon for the Neutral to drop out and not trip the breaker.
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Old 02-11-2009, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for the wiring diagram denman.I have been tracing the wires out line by line and I think there is a bad contact in the timer switch.If I'm reading the diagram right,there is a NO set of contacts in the timer switch,and with the power on and my meter set at 300VAC,there is no power between the red term. on the T.S. and the thermal cutoff.Also no power between the red wire and the Red/White wire coming out of the thermal cutoff.No power from the red term. on the T.S. to the 1M term. on the motor plug.
There is power on the black wire going to the drum lamp and the door switch ohms right,maybe the bulb is blown.Thanks for the input.
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:27 PM
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You did not say, what is the voltage L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral?
Also am I correct that your problem is that the motor will not start.
The reason I ask is that the below seems to be leaning more towards trouble shooting a heater problem.

If I'm reading the diagram right,there is a NO set of contacts in the timer switch,and with the power on and my meter set at 300VAC,there is no power between the red term. on the T.S. and the thermal cutoff.
Am not sure where you are measuring if by T.S. you mean the TIMER SWITCH 2 RED (right hand side) and the thermal cutout, you will not see any power between these two points . I must be missing something here.

Also no power between the red wire and the Red/White wire coming out of the thermal cutoff.
Again not sure which thermal cutoff you are measuring, there are two of them. Do not worry about the components in the heater circuit, they have nothing to do with starting the motor.

No power from the red term. on the T.S. to the 1M term. on the motor plug.
If by T.S. you mean RED-LINE L2, then you should see power across the switch but the timer must be in a heat position (not off) re: TIMER SWITCH 2 closed. Note either way this will not effect the motor starting

There is power on the black wire going to the drum lamp and the door switch ohms right,maybe the bulb is blown.
When you say power to the black wire where are your meter leads?
Remove the bulb and check it to see if it is blown.

Here is the start up circuit path, timer sat to any run mode

NEUTRAL N , DOOR SWITCH , PUSH TO START RELAY coil , PUSH TO START RELAY contacts , timer BU/BK contacts , L1 LINE
When you push the button the contacts close completing a circuit path for the relay's coil which holds the contacts closed.

Now for the motor itself
NEUTRAL N , DOOR SWITCH , TIMER SWITCH 4 , motor's terminal 5M , START and MAIN motor windings , THERMAL FUSE , PUSH TO START RELAY contacts , timer BU/BK contacts , L1 LINE

Once the motor starts both centrifugal switches trip.
6M/5M removes the START winding from the circuit
2M/1M switches in the heater circuit to L2 so the heater gets the 220 volts it needs.

Could be the contacts in the PUSH TO START RELAY are not closing. Though usually the coil burns out so the unit will only run when the start button is held in. But it is a possibility.

Next would be the TIMER SWITCH 4 or the BK/BU contacts

The THERMAL FUSE and DOOR SWITCH you have already checked but I would double check them.

Hope the above helps
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Old 02-12-2009, 05:03 AM
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Pascify me here, and jump out the thermal fuse. That is the white one, that is about an inch and a half long, by a half inch wide. I hate to see you buy a timer for nothing. Tom ********************************************
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Old 02-12-2009, 06:43 AM
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Kayakcrzy
Yes that would have been my first option also but he said he not only checked it but also replaced it. Definitely cannot hurt to make sure that this is not the culprit.

moodyblues
When you do this be sure to tape the connection up so it cannot short the the frame. You do not want an arc and spark.
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