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Hello, I have a gas Whirlpool dryer that will not generate any heat. When I turn the dryer on it

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Old 02-09-2009, 09:34 AM
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Default Gas Dryer (Whirlpool) w/ No Heat
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Hello,

I have a gas Whirlpool dryer that will not generate any heat. When I turn the dryer on it begins to tumble... then after a few seconds it makes a noise that I can only guess is when the burner is trying to ignite. It will make this sound for about 3 seconds and then stop for about 10 seconds and just keep repeating.

The dryer is about 3 years old, but has not been used in about 14 months. It was stored in a temperature controlled mini-storage unit (always above 60F). Is it possible that the lack of use or maybe a bump/bounce in the truck could have caused the problem?

Also, to eliminate the possibility of insufficient gas supply, I attached a 150,000 BTU natural gas torpedo heater to the same supply line where the dryer attaches and it works fine. I have to assume that this heater has a higher gas consumption rate than the gas dryer.

Thank you in advance for your help,
Rich G.

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Old 02-09-2009, 10:14 AM
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Also, I have just been doing some reading. Apparently I should be able to see the ignitor glow through the little viewing hole in the front of the dryer. Unfortunately I have removed the front cover of the dryer already and did not check to see if that was glowing. Is there anything I can check with a multimeter before reinstalling the front cover?
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:15 PM
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Hi Rich,

You can find the complete troubleshooting instructions in one of our previous posts: No Heat on Gas Dryer

Gene.
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene
Gas valve coils also could be tested by resistance. There are two coils one with three terminals and one with two terminals.
1. Coil with two terminals should have 1220 50 Ohms
2. Coil with three terminals if held with terminals in upper position:
a) across the left and the middle terminals 1365 25 Ohms
b) across the left and the right terminals 560 25 Ohms
The thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, igniter, and flame sensor all have continuity. The 3-terminal coil is within the range at 555 ohms and 1369 ohms.

The only item that does not pass the criteria you provided is the 2-terminal coil: it reads 1297 ohms across the two terminals... 27 ohms above the high limit of the range. I will order the pair of coils.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:02 AM
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Well I installed the new gas coils last night and they didn't help. Same problem... dryer works, but doesn't heat.

I disconnected the ignitor, flame sensor, fuse, and thermostat again to check continuity again and they are all good.

Any other ideas? It's a Whirlpool LGN2000KQ1.

When I turn it on, the ignitor glows for a few seconds and when it starts to fade out I hear a sound that is kind of hard to describe for about 10 seconds; it kind of sounds like a fluttering sound.
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Old 02-18-2009, 05:17 PM
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Check if the orifice (#9 on the diagram) is not clogged.

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Old 02-20-2009, 05:44 AM
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Orifice is clear... removed it and it's clean as a whistle.

I decided to check the resistances on my new replacement gas coils and all three measurments are out of whack from the ohm requirement ranges that you provided in another thread Gene. These gas coils were purchased at a local store (Servall).

So Yesterday I decided to try another store, ************************.com, which I just happen to find out is only about 20 minutes away from my house. I picked up a pair of their gas valves and they also have slightly out of range resistances.

Two terminal coil - 1298 ohms
Three terminal coil outer terminals - 569 ohms
Three terminal coil first two terminals - 1395 ohms


These second set are made by FSP and part # 279834.

I just noticed that my original set of coils had a small metal sleeve inside one of the coils. I triple and quadrouple checked everything else on the dryer and I still believe these coils to be the problem.

Where can I get the proper coils?

My dryer is still doing the same thing. I have removed the drum and attached the door sensor so I can run the dryer with the front cover off to see what's going on. It starts up, ignitor glows, when ignitor gets to full intensity it's obvious that the gas is trying to turn on, but can't... it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric motor trying to start with a slight fluttering. This sound occurs for about 10 seconds and then stops and repeats about every 30 seconds. I have concluded that the sound is coming from the gas valve or gas coils, if I disconnect the rear 2-terminal coil when the sound is happening it will stop.

Please, any help is appreciated. This thing is driving me crazy and my wife is getting a little unhappy because of the piling laundry.
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Old 02-20-2009, 12:55 PM
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Rich,

In such situation I would replace the flame sensor first because some time (very seldom) it can be bad even if it passes a continuity test due to a bad bimetal. If it would not help then the gas valve itself is bad.

- The part number for the flame sensor is AP2910747

- The part number for the gas valve is AP3081145

- The part number for the coil kit is AP2150379

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Old 02-20-2009, 01:35 PM
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Is the flame sensor just an on/off thermal switch?

Can I short the two wires going to the flame sensor and see if I get ignition? ... or is there any way to bypass the flame sensor?

If I have to buy a new gas valve, I'll just donate the dryer and get a new one.


EDIT: I only ask about bypassing the flame sensor just to see if it's the problem. I wouldn't ever leave the dryer connected that way permanently.

Last edited by bajafx4 : 02-20-2009 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 02-20-2009, 03:31 PM
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You can not bypass the flame switch because it switches the power from the igniter to the coils by opening the circuit at the right temperature.

Gene.
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