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dryer blowing thermal fuse on heating element

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Recently, I had to replace the drum rollers on this unit. Two weeks later dryer quit heating. Heating element broke,

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Old 05-21-2011, 10:37 PM
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Default dryer blowing thermal fuse on heating element
Model Number: LE6150XSNO   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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Recently, I had to replace the drum rollers on this unit. Two weeks later dryer quit heating. Heating element broke, replaced it and found thermal fuse blown. Replaced thermal fuse and High limit thermostat. Dryer ran for one day or 4 loads, Fuse blew again. I had completely cleaned out unit and vent system and found some lint build up. Replaced fuse again along with cycling thermostat and thermal vent fuse and did not hook up to vent system, half way through first cycle the Fuse blew again. I understand this is a old unit but still functional, but what's next to look for? Drum seal? would it make it blow that quickly?


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Old 05-22-2011, 06:28 AM
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Well you have replaced everything. But, I can think of one thing, that you did not mention. Usually the thermal fuse blows due to too hot conditions, which would either be a vent situation, or a bad cycling thermostat. You said, you have taken care of both. But, there could be more air flow blockage. I have experienced this problem many times, and here is what you have to do. I want you to take off, where the lint filter goes in. So, when you pull the lint filter out, you remove the 2 screws, and then pop the top up. Then go to the back of the dryer, and take the back off. You will see the vent housing on the left. Remove the four 5/16th of an inch screws, and pull off the vent housing. If it is clogged up, clean, and then put in a new thermal fuse, if you haven't already, and run some cycles with the vent hose off. If it works, hook up the vent hose. If it blows after that then the issue is the vent hose to the outside. Tom ********************************************
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:49 PM
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Default dryer blowing thermal fuse

I have already completely took off vent area and cleaned all, plus ran a snake through the house vent piece. I did put in new thermal fuse and did not hook up to house vent system and the fuse blew less than half of a cycle. After replacing basically all electronic sensors and fuses, making sure there is no blockage, Im wondering if there is something wrong with the new high limit thermostat or cycling sensor. I checked that new heating element is not touching housing sides and open ohms. Plus I have changed the high limit thermostat each time I replaced the thermal fuse since you buy them in a set. What next?
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Old 05-23-2011, 02:36 PM
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If you did not take the vent housing off like I said, there is no snake that can get to it. 99% of the times, new parts, are usually not the problem. Tom ********************************************
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:18 PM
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I did take vent housing off and cleaned all around the fan , housing, screen, drum, motor, every thing, plus ran the snake thru the vent system of my house. Sorry if you misunderstood what all I have cleaned. There is no vent blockage at all. The fan seemed secure to shaft. The felt piece around the drum probably needs replaced, but would that cause my fuse to blow
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:45 PM
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It just depends if alot of air is coming out. I have seen them pretty ripped up, and work just fine. The only thing I could think of maybe the motor is drawing high amps, and knocking out the thermal fuse. It could also be the timer having a bad contact, and shorting out, and blowing the thermal fuse. These 2 things are not easy to detect. I would replace the the thermal fuse, and the internal bias thermost. That is the one on the backside of blower housing. Tom
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:25 AM
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Here are your parts, a XSN0 does not show up but there is an XSN1.
Replacement parts for LE6150XSNO models | AppliancePartsPros.com

I am assuming that the fuse that keeps blowing is the thermal cutoff on the heater.

I would take a close look at the heating element for any signs (weld or scorch mark) that the element has touched the case.
Usually when an element touches the case it will weld itself to the case but perhaps as it is heating up it sags/deforms touches the case and then comes loose once it cools.

The hi-limit should control the temperature so that this fuse/cutoff does not blow so your problem has to be something that keeps the heater running and none of the thermostats can control it and that is usually a grounded element.

Check all wires going to the element to be sure one of them is not grounding out.
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