[campbelp2002]

The dryer was running, we opened the door to take some stuff out and closed it again and it would not start. The light comes on when the door is open so there is power. I tried all the cycles and settings. Nothing. I can hear the timer motor running and I can hear the relay click once when I press the start button. Subsequent presses of the start button do not make any more clicks unless I turn the timer to a new cycle or open and close the door. We have had some problems with the timer in the air fluff setting, where you have to jiggle the timer to get it to start after pressing the start button. But we never had similar problems in any other cycle and I have tried them all this time. I used an ohm meter to check the door switch (both contacts, not just the one for the light), the high limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, thermal cutoff and thermal fuse. All are good. The heating element is good too. I also removed the red wire from the timer and used the meter to verify that the circuit opens when the timer is off and closes when it is in any cycle position. I am starting to think it might be the electronic control, but it looks fine and it is the most expensive part, $112.21! Is there a way to determine if that is the problem without buying a new one? What else could be the problem? The only thing left seems to be the drive motor.

[Gene]

Hi campbelp2002

Most likely the problem with your dryer is a blown thermal fuse.
To get access to the part you have to remove the rear cover. The fuse is located on the air duct.
Replace the thermal fuse if it's open.

Also, by the manufacturer instructions, if the thermal fuse is blown, the cycling thermostat should be replaced too.

- The part number for the thermal fuse AP3132867

- The part number for the cycling thermostat AP3131939

- Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool dryer Model LEC8858EQ0

Good luck.
Gene.

[campbelp2002]

I used an ohm meter to check the thermal fuse, high limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and thermal cutoff. All are good; not blown or open.

[Gene]

One more test:

You need someone else to help you. With the door open, hold the door switch pushed in, push the start switch and turn the drum manually. See if it would start or any noises will come from the motor.

If nothing happened, disassemble the dryer and check all motor windings for continuity according to the wiring diagram.

Good luck.
Gene.

[campbelp2002]

Thanks Gene,
I was beginning to think I needed to check the motor. I had my son help and plugged it in, turnd the timer to a run setting, held the door switch, pushed the start button and reached into the drum and turned it by hand. No sound or hint of power when turning it in either direction. But I haven't figured out how to reach the motor. Do I have to remove the blower to get to it? It looks like I could test the motor winding resistance by measuring from the thermal fuse to timer switch 4 where the white wire from the signal guard switch comes in. The wiring diagram shows that I would be testing from motor 4M to 5M by doing that. And that would not require any (more) disassembly. I did that measurement and got 2 ohms.

As I study the wiring diagram it looks more and more like the electronic control cannot prevent the drive motor from starting. It seems like all it would do is control the timer motor in response to the moisture sensor. If I am right about that, then it looks as if I have ruled out everything except those two switches on the motor, the one from 5M to the start winding and 6M and the one from 1M to 2M. The 2 ohm reading implies the switch that engages the start winding is closed, which is reasonable since the motor hasn't startged yet, and the 2 ohm COULD be two 3.8 ohm readings in parallel. It did flash between 1.9 and 2.0 on the 200 ohm scale, which is the lowest on my meter.

[Gene]

The first thing I would check now if the power is coming to the thermal fuse. Disconnect one the wires from the thermal fuse and check for 120V between each of the wires and the ground with the door closed and the start switch engaged. It should be 120V on one of them.
If there is no power then check if there is 120V coming to the start switch.
If yes, then the problem is a bad start switch.
If no, then most likely the problem is a bad timer.

Hold on with the motor test.

Keep me updated, please.

Gene.

[campbelp2002]

I did try measuring voltage at the fuse. It went to 120 when I pressed the start button. Haven't checked voltage at the start switch yet. I'll do that next. My wife said it was the start switch from the beginning. After all, you push it and it doesn't start!

[campbelp2002]

OK I measured voltage from the Neutral (white wire where the 3 power lines come in from the plug) to the thermal fuse and it went from 0 to 120 when I pressed start. Then I moved the probe to R2 on the start switch and got 120 there too. But I did this with all the wires connected.

OK I did it again with one wire disconnected at the fuse. Same result. Pushing the start button brings the voltage up to 120 at both the fuse and the start button (measured at R2). This is with the timer in the timed dry setting. There is no power with the timer at an off position, as I would expect.

[Gene]

Now check the timer according to the chart on top of the wiring diagram and all wires from the timer to the motor.
If the timer is bad, replace it.
If there is nothing wrong with the timer or wires, then the part left is the motor.

Gene.

[campbelp2002]

OK I took the timer out of the panel and as I shake it some small loose part is rattling around inside it. I have not been able to identify the GY connection, but I think I have identified most of the others. I have only tested the BK-BU so far and it was good, but that rattling sound makes me think this is the problem. By the way, does it damage the timer to turn the dial backward?

OK the T-W switch in the timer is always 1.8K no matter what the position of the dial. Since the W wire goes to the 5M terminal on the motor, it makes sense that would cause the motor not to run. I assume the motor running is what closes the 1M-2M switch to turn on the heat too. So I put a jumper across T-W, turned the dial to auto dry, plugged it in and pressed start and IT RAN! So it is definitely the timer.

Thanks for all the help.