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vinnytuco  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, May 10, 2011 3:34:55 PM(UTC)
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vinnytuco

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Joined: 8/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 10

hello all, hope someone can help, heat coil tests good with meter and if i jump a sensor it heats, one of the sensors on the side of the heat coil case has a reading of 240 volts, i thought it was a 120 v sensor, does this mean it is the machine controls electronics ? thanks in advance with any info
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 11, 2011 3:16:46 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GEW9250PW0 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]hhope someone can help, heat coil tests good with meter and if i jump a sensor it heats, one of the sensors on the side of the heat coil case has a reading of 240 volts, i thought it was a 120 v sensor[/COLOR]
I am not sure what you are calling a sensor.
The heater has a thermal cut-off (fuse) (item 47) and a hi-limit thermostat (item 48). If either of these blows then you will see 240 volts across it is wired in series with the heating coil so you see the heater voltage.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
does this mean it is the machine controls electronics ?[/COLOR]
No

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check the thermistor resistance.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

Disconnect the connections at the board for the heater relay and check that it is open (N.O. to COM). If 0 ohms then the relay contacts are welded together.

All the above are done with the unit unplugged.
File Attachment(s):
GEW9250.pdf (357kb) downloaded 25 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
vinnytuco  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 11, 2011 8:03:55 AM(UTC)
Quote
vinnytuco

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 10

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GEW9250PW0 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

hhope someone can help, heat coil tests good with meter and if i jump a sensor it heats, one of the sensors on the side of the heat coil case has a reading of 240 volts, i thought it was a 120 v sensor
I am not sure what you are calling a sensor.
The heater has a thermal cut-off (fuse) (item 47) and a hi-limit thermostat (item 48). If either of these blows then you will see 240 volts across it is wired in series with the heating coil so you see the heater voltage.

does this mean it is the machine controls electronics ?
No

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check the thermistor resistance.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

Disconnect the connections at the board for the heater relay and check that it is open (N.O. to COM). If 0 ohms then the relay contacts are welded together.

All the above are done with the unit unplugged.

hi Denman, thanks so much for all that excellent info, i am probably going to change the thermal cut off and the high limit and the thermister on the squirrel cage, just to start fresh, i will definitly check the other items you mentioned and get back to you
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