Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WED9200SQ0 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

[COLOR="DarkRed"]i could not find the thermal cut off[/COLOR] (Item 48 in Section 3) [COLOR="DarkRed"]or the hi-limit thermostats[/COLOR] (Item 47 in Section 3) [COLOR="DarkRed"]on the diagrams in the part section
[/COLOR]

If the heater's thermal fuse is blown.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the board cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
Check the thermistor values.

If all OK you may want to replace the control board.

Thanks again for the assistance.

Both element connections to the heater element were broken. One was touching the metal assembly.

The Inlet thermistor and the Thermal Cut off have continuity. I am assuming they do not need replaced.


:) If the heater's thermal fuse is blown.
The Thermal Fuse had continuity. I am also assuming it does not need replaced.


:) Just in case it is not a grounded element.
I am not sure exactly what this means. I think you are referring to the element breaking and then making contact with metal which, appears what happened.

:) With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Belt was snug and in the middle.

:) Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Did not see any evidence of any leaks.

:) Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Cleaned lint filter.

:) Check/clean your vent system.
Cleaned vent system again. It did not retain hardly any lint.

:) Check/clean the blower wheel.
Cleaned blower wheel. It did have lint in the louvers.

:) Check the thermistor values.
Cleaned the values. There was not very much build up.

There was more lint around the element box than I thought should have been there. There was lint on the element. The vent system seemed sealed but there has to be a leak for the lint to not be exiting the piping.

Even after the element went bad everything else appeared to be working. My question is: What other failures could result from the element grounding out against the frame?

Well sounds like I am on the right path....

On the above I meant that you should check the resistance of the thermistor just to be sure it is in spec.
I checked the Outlet Thermister (heating element not replaced) and it is open. Does this need replaced?

It also could weld the heater relay contacts on the control board together.
You could check this with a meter by measuring across the Common and Normally Open (Heater Return and Heater V+) on the control board with the unit unplugged. It should be infinite ohms.
I checked the red and black connectors on the machine control electronics board. I did not get a resistance reading (meaning open?).

Sounds like you have already done this but if not I would check the rear glides, belt, idler wheel, front supports, drum seals etc. for wear. Might as well give it an overhaul while you have it opened up.
Great idea. A problem exsits. I do not really know what to check for. It appears everything is right but..........the belt is snug, idler works freely, supports seem intact with very little, if any wear. the is not apparent wear where on the guides. Again, unless it is obvious, i will miss it.

thanks again for responding.