Here are your parts includes a wiring layout.
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDE6200AYW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual, it has an actual wiring diagram, see page 10-25.
16023110 Maytag Sloped Front Dryer Repair Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.

First I would check/clean the vent system.

Next check for a grounded element especially if the unit also heats on air only.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

Next check the cycling thermostat. You will notice that the thermostat has a heater built into it. On delicate this heater is turned on, it adds heat to the thermostat so that it cycles more often reducing the heat output of the dryer.
It should be around 25,000 ohms. This is a bit of a guess on my part but all that matters is that does it have continuity.
On delicate this internal heater is full on.
On medium the 10K resistor is in this circuit so the heater is partially on, so you get more heat.
On high the heater is off.

Next to check would be the temperature selector switch.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

OK, I tested the thermostats, they seem to read something.
You have to get actual ohm readings.
"something" really does not tell you anything.
Have you checked the heating coil?

[COLOR="DarkRed"]The heating read around 10 to 12.[/COLOR]
Where the heating coil connections open (infinite ohms) when checked to the frame?

[COLOR="DarkRed"]The thermostat registered about 1. The setting on my meter only has one ohm setting. I thought your post had said it has to show continuity that is why I didn't mention the reading.[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"]
It should be around 25,000 ohms. This is a bit of a guess on my part but all that matters is that does it have continuity.[/COLOR]

Sorry but I think I screwed this up.
The thermostat has 4 connections
One set should be 0 ohms, this is the contacts.
The other set should be up around 10,000 to 25,000 ohms.
If you got a reading of 1 ohm on this set then there is a problem, the heating coil must be shorted internally.

Again I apologize for any confusion I caused, must of had my head up my you know what that day.