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I have a Roper (Whirlpool) dryer. It has never dried completely in only one cycle and we've always had to

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Old 04-24-2011, 10:17 AM
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Default Dryer Won't Start
Model Number: RED4440VQ   Brand: Roper   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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I have a Roper (Whirlpool) dryer. It has never dried completely in only one cycle and we've always had to run 2 full high heat cycles just to dry one load.

However, now it won't start at all. The cycle knob spins and clicks, but nothing happens when I press the power button.

I've taken it apart, cleaned it and looked for obviously problems but didn't see anything wrong.

Is there a way to tell if it could be the heating element, timer knob or something else that doesn't involve test electric? I simply don't have the tools to do that.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2011, 04:28 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for RED4440VQ models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.

Could be that the thermal fuse on the blower wheel (Item 7 in Section 3) has blown.

Unplug the unit and check the fuse with a meter should be 0 ohms.

Jiggery Pokery method is.
Unplug the unit.
Remove both wires from the fuse, short them together and tape them up so they will not short to the frame.
Plug the unit in and give it a try.

If blown, replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device re: prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.

Also clean/check your vent system and the blower as these are the most common causes of it blowing.

If neither of the above work then you will need a meter to go any further.
I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:34 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 4
Steve Scovill is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for RED4440VQ models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.

Could be that the thermal fuse on the blower wheel (Item 7 in Section 3) has blown.

Unplug the unit and check the fuse with a meter should be 0 ohms.

Jiggery Pokery method is.
Unplug the unit.
Remove both wires from the fuse, short them together and tape them up so they will not short to the frame.
Plug the unit in and give it a try.

If blown, replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device re: prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.

Also clean/check your vent system and the blower as these are the most common causes of it blowing.

If neither of the above work then you will need a meter to go any further.
I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Are you referring to the "fuse" on the side of the heating element shield?
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:48 AM
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No, it is on the blower Item7 in Section 3.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
No, it is on the blower Item7 in Section 3.

Okay...I'm new here. What is Item 7, Section 3?
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:19 AM
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Open the link to the parts breakdown that i included in my first post.
It has sections and itemized parts.
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:10 AM
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I'm going to give it a shot this morning since I'm off work. Is that thermal fuse easily accessible from the back of the dryer? It's a little hard to tell from the specs.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:26 PM
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Posts: 4
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for RED4440VQ models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.

Could be that the thermal fuse on the blower wheel (Item 7 in Section 3) has blown.

Unplug the unit and check the fuse with a meter should be 0 ohms.

Jiggery Pokery method is.
Unplug the unit.
Remove both wires from the fuse, short them together and tape them up so they will not short to the frame.
Plug the unit in and give it a try.

If blown, replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device re: prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.

Also clean/check your vent system and the blower as these are the most common causes of it blowing.

If neither of the above work then you will need a meter to go any further.
I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

I have checked the door switch, the starter switch, the fuse and the receptacle. I have power to the cord connections but the dryer will not start when the button is pushed. Any other suggestions?
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:55 AM
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danintennessee

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

You are missing the last digit in your model number, the above is for a VQ0.

If you have a interior drum light and it is working then you have the power to run the motor.
If not. You did not say what your results of the power check was so I would do the following first just to make sure the power is OK.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If the power is OK, unplug the unit and check the BU/BK timer contacts.

If that checks OK then with the unit unplugged tape one meter lead to Neutral at the plug/line cord and leave it there.
Then work your way back through the units components till you find the open circuit.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf RED4440.pdf (505.7 KB, 8 views)
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
danintennessee

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

You are missing the last digit in your model number, the above is for a VQ0.

If you have a interior drum light and it is working then you have the power to run the motor.
If not. You did not say what your results of the power check was so I would do the following first just to make sure the power is OK.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If the power is OK, unplug the unit and check the BU/BK timer contacts.

If that checks OK then with the unit unplugged tape one meter lead to Neutral at the plug/line cord and leave it there.
Then work your way back through the units components till you find the open circuit.
Voltage at the receptacle is fine. Voltage at the terminals is fine. The overload device reads 0 ohms and the door switch shows continuity when pressed. (I don't have a light in the drum). I don't know what to check next.
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