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rose3694  
#1 Posted : Monday, January 12, 2009 7:51:18 PM(UTC)
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rose3694

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My dryer ran fine Thurs night, come Sun evening it would not start. I have tested all the thermostats and thermal fuses with a continuity tester and they all show a completed circuit. I also checked my door switch and my push to start button and they are making a closed circuit when pushed. I followed the diagram on the schematics for the dryer that I found in the back for the timer and checked all the settings that should read closed and they are showed ok also. I also checked the outlet in the wall and it is showing electricity for both sides of the outlet. I even went to the extent of making sure each of the poles of the plug wire was making a connection to the terminal block.
I know using a continuity tester isn't exactly the way to go but I'm seriously limited on money and thats all I have to work with.

I'm also showing a circuit being completed through my heating element but it seems a bit weaker since the last time I had to work in the back of this dryer. I however can not find any broken spots in the element.

I'm currently at a loss as to how exactly to get my drum out of the way to make sure the motor is getting a connection. I've managed to get the front off and am supporting the drum currently till I can figure out how to get it out of the way.

Any suggestions would be welcome as I'm desperate to get this fixed as I have to do my husbands and my kids uniforms nightly and right now am having to hang clothes all over the house sigh.:eek:
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, January 13, 2009 9:01:39 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here is your parts breakdown
Model LER4634EQ0

Here is your wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203401728.pdf

When you say that both sides of the line have power i assume you mean L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral.
When you checked your fuse and switches did you remove the wires from at least one side of the part you were measuring. This prevents reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

The thermostats in the heater circuit have nothing to do with getting the motor started.

Your circuit path for starting the motor is
Neutral , DOOR switch , START SWitch, 5M contact on motor's centrifugal switch , motor's MAIN and START windings , THERMAL FUSE , BU/BK timer contacts , L1

Once the motor starts, the centrifugal switch is activated. This disconnects the START winding and switches in the heater.

The thermal fuse is on the blower, #23 in Section 3.
You could short the two wires for the fuse together, tape them up so they cannot short to the frame and give it a try. If it is blown do not run the unit like this as it is a safety device. Replace it ASAP.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
rose3694  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, January 13, 2009 9:30:47 AM(UTC)
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rose3694

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On section 1 item #9 should that be showing closed? because I pulled the wires off that and it was open.

As for checking the timer with wires off no so I will do that tonight when I get home.

And as for that thermal fuse um yeah that has been bypassed already :| the place didn't have it in stock the last time I worked on the dryer. I guess since I have it all open again I'll get now.

Thanks for the response. I'll post back when I know more. And thanks for those drawings those should be a bit helpful.
denman  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, January 13, 2009 10:46:14 AM(UTC)
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denman

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On section 1 item #9 should that be showing closed?
No
It should be approximately 4500 ohms.

It has no effect on getting the motor to start and is only used in Auto cycles.
In timed dry it is not in the circuit.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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