[supertramp]

Dryer is Whirlpool Gas Ultimate Care II, Model # above.

No heat, so I stripped the whole thing down. Electric motor works fine, but no flame. The ignitor was not working and when I pulled it out it was broken, so I ordered a new one and replaced it. But now the new ignitor itself does not get any power (i.e. does not glow red).

I know that the ignitor is functional because when I apply voltage to it outside the dryer it turns red. And I've double-checked that all the wires are connected as they were (though the back covers of the dryer and the vent cover are still pulled off).

My question is - what should I do next? Why would the ignitor not be receiving power when the cycle is activated? I tried pulling out the heat sensor (my best guess!), but I don't know how to test it.

Thanks for your help.

PS - I bought a digital multimeter, but the truth is I don't really know what I'm doing with it! Instructions in this regard appreciated.

[kayakcrzy]

You will have 1 of 2 problems. Take the back off the dryer, and in the middle close to the bottom will be the thermal fuse. It is white in color, and about an inch and a half long, by a 1/2 inch wide, and has 2 wires going to it. Take the 2 wires off, and ohm it out. If you get a reading, replace the flame sensor mounted on the side of the flame tube. If you don't get a reading, replace it, and that should do it. Let me know. Tom ApplianceEducator.com

[supertramp]

Hi Tom,
Thanks for your time and advice. Here's what I did: I disconnected the wires (but did not remove the fuse from the dryer) and used the digital multimeter on the two terminals. I cycled through each of the settings on the multiimiter, including -->|-, 200, 2K, 20K, 2M and 20M, and didn't get any signal in the digital display for any of them (i.e. it says 1___ and doesn't change).

When I apply the ohmeter to the flame sensor (removed from the dryer), on the 200 setting, I get a reading that maxes at around 8-10.

So does this mean there's no continuity in the fuse, and that the fuse is the culprit? Am I reading the multimeter correctly?

[Gene]

Hopefully the article How to check continuity with Ohmmeter, posted on the forum earlier will help you.

Looks like the thermal fuse is bad.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool dryer Model LGQ8858HQ0

Gene.

[supertramp]

well it's all fixed. by way of closing this thread, the problem was with the thermal fuse. it was fairly easy to put back together, and all-in-all a simple job. total cost was $20 for the fuse and $40 for the ignitor, which i bought from this site and would highly recommend (had it in two days).

my theory (have no idea if it's correct) is that there was a short in the broken ignitor which blew the fuse.

thanks to all the experts on this site. I imagine it's a thankless task, but rest assured there are people out there like me who find your advice invaluable and appreciate your time very much.

[Gene]

We are glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.