[heloego]

Dryer runs, but will not heat.

What I have done:

1. Checked continuity at all points along path to element. No discrepancies. Getting 120volts at element. Unable to find an intermittent break anywhere in element, but ordered a new one (p/n 3403585/279838) anyway. Did not fix problem.
2. Noted Timer not advancing. Checked Timer Terminals per the Continuity Matrix in the schematic. Noted several discrepancies. Ordered new Timer (p/n 8299778) and installed. Did not fix problem. Similar Continuity discrepancies with new timer. Contacted vendor for replacement and re-ordered new Timer.

I maintain $2.5 million helicopters for a living and use schematics (wiring diagrams) for much of my troubleshooting, but this simple dryer is kicking my butt!

Short of replacing the Timer...again...is there something I'm missing?

Any assistance appreciated. Thanks!!

[libertyappl]

You should be getting 240V at the element. Check your breakder and the plug.

Nat

[heloego]

I have 240 at the wall outlet.
I have 240 at the power connection plate.

Nothing wrong with the breaker, thank you. That was the very first thing I checked. I have a single breaker supplying 240 to the wall.

I know I should be getting 240 at the element...that's why I ordered a new Timer Switch. If I am to believe the schematic (which by the way is the absolute WORST I have ever seen), ALL devices are controlled by the Timer Switch.I've now replaced the timer twice. No dice there either. I've received two defective timers...neither one reads the way it should according to the continuity chart at the top of the dryer schematic. And no two timers (3 total) read the same. None of the timers advance.

Now the motor just hums, but doesn't start.

I'm about ready to can it and buy an LG or Amana.

[denman]

Here is a wiring diagram, just to make sure we are on the same wavelength.

If you are getting 120 at the element and are in Auto cycle the timer will not advance. The timer motor is only getting less than 60 volts. The heater must be off re: one of the thermostats open so that the left hand side of the heater is at 240 volts (L2). Then the resistor will drop it down to 120 for the timer motor.

Remove both wires from the heating element and check it for resistance.
Then check each side to the case, sounds like you may have a grounded element.