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I have a Whirlpool dryer model #LEN3634DW0 where the heat stopped working. I suspect the heating element but am not

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Old 03-30-2011, 08:12 PM
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Default Dryer heating element not working
Model Number: LEN3634DW0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have a Whirlpool dryer model #LEN3634DW0 where the heat stopped working. I suspect the heating element but am not sure. I tested the heating element with my meter set at 200 in the ohms area & the meter read 10.0. I checked the fuse. That read .5 as well as did the thermostat. Is the heater element gone or should I check something else?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2011, 04:08 AM
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Default

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN3634DW0 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram

First thing to check is power to the unit.
The motor. timer and interior light all run off of 120 volts but the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

The fuse and thermostat look OK.
You still have to check the thermal cut-off, the hi-limit thermostat and timer switch 2.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf LEN3634.pdf (125.0 KB, 6 views)
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Old 03-31-2011, 04:49 AM
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Default Dryer heating element not working

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Voltage to the dryer checks out fine. The dryer cycling thermostat checks out (00.3). The hi-limit thermostat also checks out (00.3) (I refered to this as the thermostat in my original post). The thermal cut-off doesn't change when I put the meter on it. The meter reads "1" and stays at "1" after I unplug it & connect the meter to it. Is this my culprit??

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN3634DW0 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram

First thing to check is power to the unit.
The motor. timer and interior light all run off of 120 volts but the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

The fuse and thermostat look OK.
You still have to check the thermal cut-off, the hi-limit thermostat and timer switch 2.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2011, 05:12 AM
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Default

The thermal cut-off doesn't change when I put the meter on it. The meter reads "1" and stays at "1" after I unplug it & connect the meter to it. Is this my culprit??
Yes I would say it is blown.
Before replacing check out the following to see if you can figure out why it blew.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:01 AM
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Smile Dryer heating element not working

The heating coil checked out at 10 ohms & the coils were fine. I pulled the chute off to check the blower wheel. The bottom of the chute was full of dirt & lint limiting air flow. I do believe this could be what caused the failure of the thermal cut-off. I have cleaned it as well as the rest of the dryer. The belt & seals appear to be fine. The lint filter checks out as well.
Thanks for all your help. I'll be ordering the thermal cut-off kit and the dryer cycling thermostat today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
The thermal cut-off doesn't change when I put the meter on it. The meter reads "1" and stays at "1" after I unplug it & connect the meter to it. Is this my culprit??
Yes I would say it is blown.
Before replacing check out the following to see if you can figure out why it blew.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
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