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Joined: 1/6/2009(UTC)
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I have a Roper Dryer model RES7745PQ0. It is about 3 years old. It has been working fine until about 2 weeks ago. Two weeks ago, the dryer stopped heating. So I pulled the heating coil. It had a break and I replaced it with a new one. The dryer worked fine at that point and ran and dried perfectly for 5-10 loads. Two nights ago, the dryer stopped working completely. The timer motor runs and advances when set on the manual timer. But the tumbler motor will not start and the heating element does not heat. Here is what I have tested so far: I have ~240v at the wall and at the cord connections to the dryer. I have ~115v at the L1 to ground and L2 to ground. The door switch has continuity when closed and open when open. The "push2start" button has continuity (w/ slight resistance) when pushed. The "thermal cutoff" has continuity. The "thermal fuse" has continuity. The "heater coil" has continuity. The "thermostat heater" has continuity (w/ slight resistance). The "operating thermostat" has continuity. The "hi-limit thermostat" has continuity. Timer motor advances in manual time mode. Are there any tests I can do on the motor and/or timer to determine where the problem is? The timer is $80 and the motor is $95. If I have to replace both to find the problem --or not-- (plus the $50 I just spent on the heating coil) I might as well buy a new one... I have the schematics Model RES7745PQ0. Any help would be greatly appreciated! (By me, my wife and maybe the kids too!) Thanks in advance! Greg
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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I also have the electrical schematic found here: http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208528190.pdfI have traced my way through it. There does not seem to be a tension switch on the belt pulley on this model. The tensioner is a pretty simple spring bar with a pulley. I have checked both thermostats and the thermal fuse (and everything else listed in the first message). They all test good. I by-passed them too and it still would not start. Any other timer or motor tests possible? It seems from the schematic on the link above, there are about 5 switches internal to the timer and at least one in the tumbler motor. I read on another forum that one can "120v hot-wire" two of the connectors on the tubler motor to make it run without the timer, etc. Can someone show me which connectors to use to try this? Can someone explain the top part of the electrical schematic linked above? The part labeled "Timer Switch"? I really need to figure this out without spending $200 to do so. Thanks for any help you can give. Greg
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Help! Anybody got any ideas? Please!
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