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Last night my dryer stopped working. I had done several loads with no problems. On the last load the dryer

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2011, 04:56 PM
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Default Dryer won't start
Model Number: rel3612bw3   Brand: Roper   Age: More than 10 years   

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Last night my dryer stopped working. I had done several loads with no problems. On the last load the dryer kept stopping after about 5 minutes. I would restart it but it would only run for 5 minutes or so. On the last try it kept running for about 15 minutes and it heated up so I stopped it to check the clothes. They were still wet so I closed the door and tried to restart it. The dryer would not start. I checked the circuit breaker and power to the outlet and everything is fine. I checked the vents, hose and lint catcher and they were all clear. I checked for burnt connections but didn't see any. I tried to test all the switches but my analog multi-meter is faulty and the digital one I just bought doesn't seem to work operly either. My fix-it-yourself manual said it could be the push -to-start switch, thermostat or timer. The first two are not pricey but the timer is. Any suggestions on how I figure out what's wrong?
Thanks for your help. Curtis referred me and he was very helpful.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2011, 09:13 PM
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Is the dryer completely silent when you push the start button?

If it is , check the door switch and the thermal fuse (#23 on the diagram).

Post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL REL3612BW3 | AppliancePartsPros.com

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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2011, 06:03 AM
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Default Dryer won't start

The dryer does not make any noise when I push the start button. I tried checking both the door switch and the thermal fuse. They seem to be OK but then I realized that my analog mutitester was defective. I bought a new digital tester but that doesn't seem to be working properly either. When I turn it on I get '1' on the display not 'OL' , then when I test the parts I get no reading not even '0.00' but then sometimes I get very high numbers. It's weird.

Is it necessary to disconnected the parts before you test them for continuity? Most I can easily disconnect but some are difficult and I don't want to break them trying to disconnect the leads.

Thanks for your help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Is the dryer completely silent when you push the start button?

If it is , check the door switch and the thermal fuse (#23 on the diagram).

Post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL REL3612BW3 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2011, 01:48 PM
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You do have to disconnect all leads at least on one side of the tested part prior to test it for continuity. If it's hard to remove then try to pry it using a flat blade screwdriver.

Visual test would not work.

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