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My dryer just recently crapped out on me. I was drying a load of towels and the next time I went to dry something it was spinning, but had no heat. I'm hoping to save a few bucks and fix it myself. I bought a voltage meter, but when I opened the back of the dryer I had no idea where to start. I was hoping someone might be able to help me figure out what I need to do to try and get the dryer firing again. The pictures below are of the back of the dryer.  
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Sorry I couldn't get the pictures to rotate.
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If you take off the wire on the thermal fuse it is on top of the heater housing. The part with the 2 wires on it, that have a plastic coating. Put you meter on ohms, and put one meter lead to one terminal, and the other to the other terminal. If you get no reading, replace it. Of course the dryer is unplugged when you make these checks. If you get a reading, check the element the same way. If you get a reading, go out side, and flip the breaker off and on a few times, and then plug in the dryer and see if it works. If you don't get a reading, replace it. If you want to be sure you have 240 volts, in your picture the plug goes to the terminal block. Put your meter on 500 volts, and then put one lead on the terminal on the left, and the other on the right, and you should read 240. If not you have a breaker problem. Let me know how it goes. Tom
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Here is your parts breakdown Model TEDS740PQ0Here is your wiring diagram https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208528187.pdfUnplug the unit At the very bottom of the heater assy are the wires going to the element itself. Remove the wires from one side and measure it. It should be 8 to 12 ohms. The reason you remove the wires from one side is to ensure you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. There is a good sticky at the start of this forum on meter usage. Then work your way through the different thermostats and fuse. All should be 0 ohms at room temperature. Note your operating (cycling) thermostat will have 4 wires. 2 are for the contacts (0 ohms) and 2 are for a heater (7000 ohms approx), that is built into the thermostat and used for variable temperatures |
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Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy  If you take off the wire on the thermal fuse it is on top of the heater housing. The part with the 2 wires on it, that have a plastic coating. Put you meter on ohms, and put one meter lead to one terminal, and the other to the other terminal. If you get no reading, replace it. Of course the dryer is unplugged when you make these checks. If you get a reading, check the element the same way. If you get a reading, go out side, and flip the breaker off and on a few times, and then plug in the dryer and see if it works. If you don't get a reading, replace it. If you want to be sure you have 240 volts, in your picture the plug goes to the terminal block. Put your meter on 500 volts, and then put one lead on the terminal on the left, and the other on the right, and you should read 240. If not you have a breaker problem. Let me know how it goes. Tom I set my meter to OHMs x1K for this I'm guessing. I got a reading of 0 on the thermal fuse. The heating element gave me a reading of 0 as well. I checked the terminal block and it read 240 (I did plug it in for this test as I got no reading with the dryer unplugged).
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Originally Posted by: denman Here is your parts breakdown Model TEDS740PQ0Here is your wiring diagram https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208528187.pdfUnplug the unit At the very bottom of the heater assy are the wires going to the element itself. Remove the wires from one side and measure it. It should be 8 to 12 ohms. The reason you remove the wires from one side is to ensure you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. There is a good sticky at the start of this forum on meter usage. Then work your way through the different thermostats and fuse. All should be 0 ohms at room temperature. Note your operating (cycling) thermostat will have 4 wires. 2 are for the contacts (0 ohms) and 2 are for a heater (7000 ohms approx), that is built into the thermostat and used for variable temperatures I tried measuring each contact of the element by itself and got no reading on each. I checked the operating thermostat as well. The red wires read past 0 ohms and the purple wires read around 2 ohms. Just to note I set the meter at x1K.
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Not sure what you mean by each contact by itself?
You should be measuring between the contacts.
A couple things on using a meter.
1. Before I start using ohms I always short the leads together so that I know I am getting a true 0
2. Not sure what the 2 for your second reading actually means, I have not used an analogue meter for at least 30 years so am more than a tad rusty.
My guess is that it is just not calibrated correctly. But if it is 2000 ohms it iws too low but this would not cause a no heat problem. |
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Originally Posted by: denman Not sure what you mean by each contact by itself?
You should be measuring between the contacts.
A couple things on using a meter.
1. Before I start using ohms I always short the leads together so that I know I am getting a true 0
2. Not sure what the 2 for your second reading actually means, I have not used an analogue meter for at least 30 years so am more than a tad rusty.
My guess is that it is just not calibrated correctly. But if it is 2000 ohms it iws too low but this would not cause a no heat problem. I'm sorry, but this stuff is all pretty foreign to me. What I meant was that I was only touching one contact at a time.
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Put 1 of your meter leads on one terminal on the thermal fuse, and the other meter lead on the other terminal o the thermal fuse. Make sure you pull the wires off. Also pull the wires off the part you are checking. Tom
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