[heather608]

3 nights ago it stopped heating up and runs non stop. I cleaned out the vent duct going outside and and the vent duct where the lint trap goes. I have also changed the thermal fuse. Still no heat. Momm with 4 kids and need fixed laundry piling up FAST!

[denman]

Could not find any info on the given model number. Closest I could get is RED4440SQ0.

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RED4440SQ0 29``ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

If the fuse you replaced was Item 7 in Section 3 then that would not have solved your problem as this is the fuse in the motor circuit and the motor would have been dead.

First you have to check the power. The motor and interior light run off of 120 volts but the heater requires the full 240 volts. On most units this is a bit dangerous but this unit lets you check it easily. Put the unit into timed dry and let it run. If the timer advances then you have the 240 volts as the timer also runs directly off of the 240 volts in timed dry mode.
If it does not have 240 volts try flipping the breaker off/on a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.

If you have 240 volts then unplug the unit and check the heating coil, usually around 10 ohms.
If OK
Check the thermal cut-off, hi-limit thermostat and the operating thermostat, all should be 0 ohms.
Note: Your operating thermostat has 4 connectors.
2 of them are the contacts, they should be 0 ohms.
The other 2 are an internal heater they are usually up around 30,000 ohms.

If the thermal cut-off is blown get back to the forum as there are other things you should check before replacing it.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.