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Cabrio Electric Dryer Low Heat
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Model: WED6400SW1 Brand: Whirlpool Age: 1 - 5 years
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cfcdh3  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, March 15, 2011 5:45:45 PM(UTC)
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cfcdh3

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Hello. I have a Whirlpool Cabrio electric dryer model #WED6400SW1 that is putting out low heat regardless of the control settings. I checked the heat duct with a infrared thermometer and it's reading between 120-125 degrees F. Internal drum temprature is only 85 degrees F. What is the troubleshooting process? Thank you.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, March 16, 2011 3:03:19 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WED6400SW1 29`` ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

And here is a service manual
Whirlpool 8178584 Cabrio Dryer Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You will have to join the site to get the manual but it is a good site for info for the appliance DIYer.

Probably would not be a bad idea to check the power to the unit.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

Try running the diagnostics to see if an error comes up.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and remove both wires from the heating coil.
Then measure it with a meter, should be around 10 ohms.
Then measure from each connector to the case, both should be infinite ohms (open).
If not it could be the coil is grounded and is causing problems.
If OK
Check both thermostats with a meter, see the tech sheet.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
WED6400.pdf (421kb) downloaded 48 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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kayakcrzy  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, March 16, 2011 3:51:01 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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Sitting on the blower housing is a part called a thermisiter. It's job is to measure temperature. I have a feeling that will be your issue. The part # is 8577274. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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cfcdh3  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, March 16, 2011 2:02:17 PM(UTC)
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cfcdh3

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Joined: 3/15/2011(UTC)
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy Go to Quoted Post
Sitting on the blower housing is a part called a thermisiter. It's job is to measure temperature. I have a feeling that will be your issue. The part # is 8577274. Tom ApplianceEducator.com


Thank you Sir. Any way to test it?
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cfcdh3  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, March 16, 2011 2:03:53 PM(UTC)
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cfcdh3

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Joined: 3/15/2011(UTC)
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WED6400SW1 29`` ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

And here is a service manual
Whirlpool 8178584 Cabrio Dryer Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You will have to join the site to get the manual but it is a good site for info for the appliance DIYer.

Probably would not be a bad idea to check the power to the unit.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

Try running the diagnostics to see if an error comes up.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and remove both wires from the heating coil.
Then measure it with a meter, should be around 10 ohms.
Then measure from each connector to the case, both should be infinite ohms (open).
If not it could be the coil is grounded and is causing problems.
If OK
Check both thermostats with a meter, see the tech sheet.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.


Wow... Thank you for the great reply and information. I was asking myself how to run the diagnostic, then I saw you attached the tech sheet. It may be a couple of days before I get to work on it (again, it's drying lukewarm), but will let everyone know what the final problem was. Thanks again.
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cfcdh3  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, March 22, 2011 4:12:29 PM(UTC)
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cfcdh3

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Finally got the parts and repaired today. Dual heating element was burned up pretty bad and falling apart. EXPENSIVE ($125). Also replaced high limit switch and both thermisiters. All is well for now. Thanks again for the tech info and advice.
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denman  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, March 23, 2011 12:57:53 AM(UTC)
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denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
You are welcome, glad to hear you are up and running.

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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