[dr_zeus]

Evening Folks.
I've been reading your forums almost all day trying to find an answer to my problem.
My dryer was submerged in a flooded basement (12" of water) for about 12 hours. It was plugged into 220 the entire time (breaker did not trip- yikes!! ).
The water submerged the motor (and its switch), thermostats (2) and probably the thermal fuse.

We waited 5 days, attempted to start and- nothing. I have checked the therms and fuse with a multimeter and they are OK (closed).
Element checks out OK.
Don't know if elements heat up as I've not left it plugged in long enuff to find out.
When start is attempted, there is no sound at all from the motor (as I would expect if where frozen) and it turns freely by hand.
I can hear the very slight "buzz" coming from the timer.
AC is indeed fine with 2- 110 circuits.
Drum light works fine on opening of door (switch was not submerged).

I suspect maybe the switch attached to the motor? I can't find much online about its function so I'm not sure of its purpose.
If that is the probable culprit, should I just replace the entire motor and not just the switch?

Kenmore series 600 (electric)
model 110.67622600

Below is its schematic. (Unfortunately I don't speak fluent schematic)

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you VERY much.

Terry

[denman]

Check the thermal fuse, it is mounted on the blower assembly.
Part number: AP3132867

Unplug the unit and check the fuse with a meter should be 0 ohms.

Jiggery Pokery method is.
Unplug the unit.
Remove both wires from the fuse, short them together and tape them up so they will not short to the frame.
Plug the unit in and give it a try.

If blown, replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device re: prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.

Be ready to kill power to the unit in case your motor starts to overheat etc.

[dr_zeus]

Thanx Denman,
I have already tested the fuse. Using the ohm meter I got the same reading as if I just touched the two probes together- 0.00.
I will try the alternate method this pm after work.
I do appreciate your input and will keep you posted.
Do you think that the motor switch is susceptible when exposed to water like it was?
I know a moderate amount about electronics/ mechanics. Well, probably just enuff to make myself dangerous!
Thanks for your assistance.

Terry

[richappy]

Check motor pins 4 and 5, should be around 6 ohms. If ok, I would pull the motor, partially remove the motor centrificle switch screws,and spray the switch with a non residue contact cleaner available at Radio Shack, then cook the motor in an oven at lower than 200 degrees for a few hours. This is very important to do as the heat will dry the motor windings and the water that has displaced the oil in the bushing felt pads. These felts supply oil to the bushings for the life of the motor. Right now, these felt pads will supply plenty of water to the bushings and if the motor runs, the bushings will heat up and warp. Next, oil both motor shafts with light non- detergent oil. These are all open frame motors, so I would use a zoom spout oiler with high grade, non-detergent turbine oil (55191), they should have it on this site. Feed the oil inside the motor near the felt pads. You are lucky the motor did not run as the bushings would have failed and/or the windings would burn up due to leakage current.
You can bench test the motor, current will be around 4 amps and bearings should feel "free".
I have done this a few times and it worked.

[dr_zeus]

Thanx richappy for the reply.
I'm at work but will try yer suggestion this pm.
wife will love me for putting the motor in the oven!
probably a stupid question, but could I spray the motor with "water dispersing agent #40" to dry it out or is that a crazy idea?
I appreciate your input and will follow up as soon as I have time.
Thank you!

[ScottsApplianceRepair]

Ok... I do this for a living and have done electronics since 1984. That said....

It's labeled Kenmore but what you have is a Whirlpool dryer with a Kenmore label slapped on it. Kenmore always contracts out for their manufacturing, it's normal.

BIG question... does the interior light come on when you open the door? If not, you may be dealing with a power issue. Breakers can and do trip in ways that don't appear to be tripped and bad breakers may physically reset without restoring power. To really check power, put the plug in the receptical but pull it out barely enough to slip the meter leads in and touch the prongs while the thing is still plugged in. You need 240 side to side and 120 from either side to the top on a 3 prong plug. On a 4 prong plug you want 240 from right to left, 0 from top to bottom and 120 from either side to the top or bottom.

1) Motor does not hum when you try to start? That means no current flow through the circuit. That means you have an open somewhere in the system.

UNPLUG THE DRYER NOW. Do NOT run continuity tests with it plugged in, EVER.

2) I would use a standard "half split" approach to run it down. Remove the back panel and the small panel covering the power cord connections.

3) Set your meter to continuity test (beeps when leads touched together). Put one meter lead on the WHITE wire of the power cord connection and the other on the thermal fuse. Press the start button. Do this twice, once on each side of the thermal fuse to make sure it's being tested as well.

If it beeps one time but not the other, it's the thermal or the connections to it being dirty.

If it beeps both times then the issue is between the thermal and the black wire from the power cord, including the timer circuit.

If it does not beep either time, which is what I expect will happen, then you check again between the same white wire and the NO (normally open) line of the door switch. This is the Blue (BU) wire and your meter should yell at you (0 ohms) when the door is closed.

If the meter is silent either way, AND the interior light works, you have a bad door switch.

If the switch works properly then check across the Push to Start switch by putting your meter leads on the black wire and white wire with red stripe on the start switch and then seeing if the meter beeps when you push it.

No beep? Start switch problem.

Good beep? Now you're worried about the motor. Check it's connections because they can tarnish and also check the motor as recommended by someone else above.

Good luck!

[dr_zeus]

Hi RIchappy, Thanks for your help.
I did the measurement between 4 and 5 and I got no reading at all.
I did the same measurement between 4 and 6 same thing.
I also measured between the blue wire (on fuse) and white red on power switch (wires were isolated from other terminals)- nothing.
Is this the measurement I would expect from open windings or do I simply not know how to use my meter?
Note: I did a few random measurements across multiple terminals for the fun and I did receive some readings other than 0.
I double checked fuse, door switch, thermostats. No wires appear to compromised.
I don't know how to do measurements on the timer, and as I see it, this is the only other POSSIBLE cause.
Since the motor was the only substantial component submerged, I'd feel good replacing it and basically end up with a whole new dryer (assuming that some other component wasn't damaged indirectly from the water).

Thanks again.

[dr_zeus]

Thanks Scott,

The drum light WILL turn on and I have verified 2- 110 circuits at the power cord connections so I'm guessing the breakers are OK. I also double checked the door switch- its OK too.
In step 3, I get no continuity on either side of the fuse while pressing start button, door open or door closed.
Meter does beep across black and white red wire while depressing start button.
As suggested by richappy, I measured across pins 4 and 5 at the motor and received no reading at all.
So yer thinking motor huh?
Thanks Scott!!

Terry

[gosporteer]

hope you don't mind me riding on your coat tails ... i have the same problem.
My dryer is a maytag (MEDC400VW0). dried everything out and when i push the start button i get a buzz. (as if a 3 phase motor has lost a phase)
interior light is on and everything else checks out is there a reset for the motor somewhere ?

[richappy]

Just remove the motor switch screws, pry up the top a bit, and spray in non-residue cleaning spray while pushing in on the tab on the side that activates the switch, put back and test again. Then do the cook procedure.