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lousy repairman  
#1 Posted : Sunday, March 6, 2011 8:51:57 AM(UTC)
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lousy repairman

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Joined: 2/27/2011(UTC)
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I have replaced the thermostat, heating element, and thermal fuse. I checked the lint and the breaker and outlet. all are good. Why wont the dryer heat? Maybe a resistor?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, March 7, 2011 2:24:07 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL EL5030VL0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram

[COLOR="DarkRed"]I have replaced the thermostat, heating element, and thermal fuse. I checked the lint and the breaker and outlet. all are good.[/COLOR]
You also have a high-limit (Item 15 in Section 4) and a thermal cut-out (Item 6 in Section 4) in the heater circuit.
I do not know how you checked for power so that may still be an issue.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Why wont the dryer heat?[/COLOR]
Could be a number of things, you have to do more troubleshooting.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Maybe a resistor?[/COLOR]
No. The resistor only effects the timer motor.

Sounds like you are just replacing parts in the hope that it will fix the unit.

Lets try changing you from "lousy repairman" to un-lousy repairman.

Get a meter this will let you actually check parts before replacing them.
It is always best to try to use resistance/continuity when checking things as it is the safest way re: the machine is unplugged. Of course when checking for power this in not possible but you can check heaters, thermostats, fuses, switches etc using resistance (ohms).

I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

First I would check the power. Just be very careful what you touch and that you do not short anything.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

Note: If we assume that the new heater is OK then does the timer advance in an auto mode. If it does then your 240 is probably OK as the timer motor uses the 240 when in auto modes.

Then check the components in the heater circuit using ohms.
If the thermal cut-out (fuse) (Item 6 in Section 4) is blown open/infinite ohms) then get back to us as there are other things you should check before replacing it.
File Attachment(s):
EL5030.pdf (29kb) downloaded 6 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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