[Sgat8516]

I've got a Kenmore stacking Washer+Dryer Unit, and the Dryer stopped working the other night (washer still spins/ect).
I've tested checked the breaker. I've tested continuity on the Start button and door switches (and the 4? Thermostats/Thermal Fuse inside), and I get resistance on all of them.

Any suggestions on what to check next?

I've been using the following parts diagram to locate the components:

http://www.********************************.com/part...od=11088762793
In Dryer Bulkhead diagram, are the parts I've checked 42 47 48 50 (internal bias operating thermostat, Thermal cutoff fuse kit, high limit thermostat, thermal limiter), plus the door and on switches.

[Gene]

Did you check the belt and belt switch (#4 on the diagram)?

Gene.

[Sgat8516]

Originally Posted by Gene

Did you check the belt and belt switch (#4 on the diagram)?

Gene.

The entire dryer doesn't turn on. No motor, no noises, no nothing. But the washer works fine, and it only has 1 plug for both.
Would the belt switch cause that?

Btw, if it helps, it was running at the time it stopped working.

[Gene]

The belt switch controls voltage to the motor, so if the belt breaks or the switch itself becomes bad then the motor would not run.

Gene.

[Sgat8516]

Originally Posted by Gene

The belt switch controls voltage to the motor, so if the belt breaks or the switch itself becomes bad then the motor would not run.

Gene.

Ok, I think you may be onto something here. Its in a horrendously awkward position. I couldn't get access to the bolts that hold it in, but got the multimeter leads to make contact, and didn't show any contact at all between the leads (obviously need to get it out for verification).

Is there a special tool to take the blower wheel off? Looks square, larger than a standard socket wrench head. Can't break the contact by hand.

[Gene]

Reach behind the blower housing and place a 7/8’’ open end wrench on the motor. Rotate the blower wheel clockwise to lock the motor shaft with the wrench. Allow wrench to lock against the motor bracket.

Using a 3/8’’ socket drive with a 3/8’’ -1/2’’ adapter or 1/2’’ drive, remove the blower wheel. The blower wheel has left-hand threads. Rotate the wheel clockwise to remove. Directional arrows are molded on the front edge of the wheel showing which way to turn to loosen and tighten.

Gene.

[Sgat8516]

Originally Posted by Gene

Using a 3/8’’ socket drive with a 3/8’’ -1/2’’ adapter or 1/2’’ drive, remove the blower wheel. The blower wheel has left-hand threads. Rotate the wheel clockwise to remove. Directional arrows are molded on the front edge of the wheel showing which way to turn to loosen and tighten.

Gene.

Its a 3/4, which is why its a problem. Checked Advance Auto for a suited rental tool, but they don't carry a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter.
Checking with a mechanic up the street in just a minute to see if he has one I can borrow.

Ok, got the fan wheel off, and its not the fan switch...

Anything else? Motor? How would i test it (now that i had to take the entire thing out, just to remove the belt switch...)

[Gene]

Check all wires and wire harness plugs between the washer and the dryer.

Check the motor windings for continuity (4 to 6 ohms).

Gene.

[Sgat8516]

Originally Posted by Gene

Check all wires and wire harness plugs between the washer and the dryer.

Check the motor windings for continuity (4 to 6 ohms).

Gene.

Turned out to be (from my limited understanding of repair guy), was an electrical overload on a wire coming off the Motor, that also blew out a fuse (was only getting 120v, so enough for washer...)

But.. now the dryer runs fine, but takes 2x as long to dry a load...... vent's not blocked, dryer does warmup (not super hot though).

Its possible a wire would be switched around on the thermostats/thermistors (but I marked 1 wire for each, so I 'think' i put them on right). A few are pretty much symetrical, with no distinctions between up/down (so they'd go on the same way rightside up or upside down, and may have been switched).

Part 50 in below diagram (Thermal Limiter 195f), is one that especially might be a culprit (the one that has 4 wires coming out of it, as the entire device might have been put in upside down). It looks almost identical to the regular thermostats, except it has 4 wires (2 grey i think, and normal red+black?, with the red+black having a plastic cover around the plug's)
http://www.********************************.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsd irect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fP0212188-00004.png

Part 50 (no picture..)
http://www.********************************.com/partsdirect/part-number/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-dryer-combo-Parts/3403607/0026/110/Model-11088762793/0582/0152000?keySuffixId=NA&productTypeId=x&searchModel Number=11088762793&subCompDesc=Dryer%20bulkhead&br andDesc=KENMORE&modelDesc=LAUNDRY-CENTER&pathTaken=partSearch&blt=11

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Sgat8516

.. now the dryer runs fine, but takes 2x as long to dry a load...... vent's not blocked, dryer does warmup...

Most common cause of such problem is insufficient air flow. A restriction can be outside the dryer as well as inside. Make sure the blower wheel is properly attached to the motor shaft and all ducts are properly connected with no air leakage. Disconnect the vent hose on the back of the dryer and run a load to see if there is any difference in time.

If the problem still exist, you may want to replace the high limit thermostat (#48 on the diagram).

The thermal limiter (#50) you mentioned, is actually a thermal fuse. If it's open then the dryer would not work at all.

- The thermal cut-off kit Part number: AP2973862

Gene.