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![]() Model Number: 11088762793 Brand: Kenmore Age: 1 - 5 years
![]() I've got a Kenmore stacking Washer+Dryer Unit, and the Dryer stopped working the other night (washer still spins/ect). I've tested checked the breaker. I've tested continuity on the Start button and door switches (and the 4? Thermostats/Thermal Fuse inside), and I get resistance on all of them. Any suggestions on what to check next? I've been using the following parts diagram to locate the components: http://www.********************************.com/part...od=11088762793 In Dryer Bulkhead diagram, are the parts I've checked 42 47 48 50 (internal bias operating thermostat, Thermal cutoff fuse kit, high limit thermostat, thermal limiter), plus the door and on switches. Related Models Last edited by Sgat8516 : 03-04-2011 at 12:26 PM. |
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![]() Quote:
Would the belt switch cause that? Btw, if it helps, it was running at the time it stopped working. |
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![]() The belt switch controls voltage to the motor, so if the belt breaks or the switch itself becomes bad then the motor would not run.
Gene.
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Is there a special tool to take the blower wheel off? Looks square, larger than a standard socket wrench head. Can't break the contact by hand. Last edited by Sgat8516 : 03-08-2011 at 04:23 PM. |
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![]() Reach behind the blower housing and place a 7/8’’ open end wrench on the motor. Rotate the blower wheel clockwise to lock the motor shaft with the wrench. Allow wrench to lock against the motor bracket.
Using a 3/8’’ socket drive with a 3/8’’ -1/2’’ adapter or 1/2’’ drive, remove the blower wheel. The blower wheel has left-hand threads. Rotate the wheel clockwise to remove. Directional arrows are molded on the front edge of the wheel showing which way to turn to loosen and tighten. Gene.
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Anything else? Motor? How would i test it (now that i had to take the entire thing out, just to remove the belt switch...) Last edited by Sgat8516 : 03-10-2011 at 01:04 PM. |
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![]() Check all wires and wire harness plugs between the washer and the dryer.
Check the motor windings for continuity (4 to 6 ohms). Gene.
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![]() Quote:
But.. now the dryer runs fine, but takes 2x as long to dry a load...... vent's not blocked, dryer does warmup (not super hot though). Its possible a wire would be switched around on the thermostats/thermistors (but I marked 1 wire for each, so I 'think' i put them on right). A few are pretty much symetrical, with no distinctions between up/down (so they'd go on the same way rightside up or upside down, and may have been switched). Part 50 in below diagram (Thermal Limiter 195f), is one that especially might be a culprit (the one that has 4 wires coming out of it, as the entire device might have been put in upside down). It looks almost identical to the regular thermostats, except it has 4 wires (2 grey i think, and normal red+black?, with the red+black having a plastic cover around the plug's) http://www.********************************.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsd irect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fP0212188-00004.png Last edited by Sgat8516 : 03-28-2011 at 01:44 PM. |
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If the problem still exist, you may want to replace the high limit thermostat (#48 on the diagram). The thermal limiter (#50) you mentioned, is actually a thermal fuse. If it's open then the dryer would not work at all. - The thermal cut-off kit Part number: AP2973862 Gene.
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