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My dryer is working but is not heating. Im not sure if this has anything t do with it but, i had to change my chord from a 4 prong to a 3 prong and i asked my brother to do it. before he even took anything off the dryer,he didnt know what he was doing at all, he pluged the chord in the wall. Sparks flew, he shocked himself pretty bad and the chord hit the dryer. It blew flipped the breaker too.. I saw the ends of the plug and they looked a little melted. I read on another post that if your not getting enough electricity through the chord, your dryer culd be working but not heating. Do you think i just need to buy anther chord or could something else be the problem??
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for General Electric DBLR333EE1WW Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.comSince it sounds like you have no experience working with electricity you may want to get a pro in. Your motor and timer use 120 volts where as the heating element uses 240 volts so you may have an electrical problem. The short could have taken out one of the breakers. The cord and the unit's terminal strip and other wiring will have to be inspected. Any corrosion/pitting/overheating must be repaired. A poor connection due to pitting etc. is a resistance, as current passes through this resistance it generates heat which further degrades the connection causing more heat and so on and so on till the connection fails. So it is important to be sure that all connections are resistance free. The 3 wire hook-up still has to be done and this involves installing a ground strap or hooking up the ground strap if the unit already has one. It is very important that this is done correctly. If not and the unit has an electrical fault you could end up getting a nasty shock. 120 volts will not usually kill a healthy adult but someone with a heart problem or a kid is a different matter. And finally this is a GE and they like to keep everything a secret so I cannot get a wiring diagram for you and it would help if you had this. Sometimes they are glued to the back of the unit or stored in the control console. As I said the no heat could be a power problem but is also could be a blown thermal cut-off, a blown thermostat, a blown heater element or blown timer contacts. You will need a meter to diagnose this properly. Also you will be checking for 240 volts which is not great to start your education on electricity, as it is LETHAL!!! |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Come on Denman, you could walk them through this repair!!! LOL!!! There has to be some sort of video, up your sleeve you can send them!! Sorry, just having a great laugh with my morning Joe!!! LOL!!! Tom
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
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