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No heat - was running during power surge/outage

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The dryer was running when the power surged low and back to norm and eventually went out - only heat

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2011, 04:33 PM
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Default No heat - was running during power surge/outage
Model Number: WED5540SQ0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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The dryer was running when the power surged low and back to norm and eventually went out - only heat appears affected, as timer, spin, etc all work. Lint trap cleaned regularly. Have flipped breakers to make sure that wasn't it. Trying to ID what pts/pt#s need to order for do-it-yourself repair.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2011, 02:26 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WED5540SQ0 29``ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

I would check the power to the unit first.
The motor runs on 120 but the heater requires the full 240 volts.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If OK with the unit unplugged and using ohms
Check the heater (Item 17 in Section 3) usually around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then the main thermostat (Item 8 in Section 3). One set of connections is the contacts they should be 0 ohms. The other set is an internal heater it is usually around 20,000 ohms but is not critical for this problem.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Check the hi-limit and the thermal fuse (Items 5 & 9 in Section 3), both should be 0 ohms.
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